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AP: I'm Adam Phillips for Wordmaster, sitting in for Roseanne Skirble and Avi Arditti. Today, we take a look at some of the specialized1 words found in the world of fashion.
(MUSIC: "I'm Too Sexy for My Shirt"/Right Said Fred)AP: New York City enjoys pride of place as one of the world's top fashion centers. That's where you'll find Valerie Steele, who directs the Museum of the Fashion institute of Technology, or FIT ["F-I-T"], where many of tomorrow's fashion designers, marketing2 executives and others train for careers in the six-hundred-eighty-billion-dollar-a-year fashion industry.
VALERIE STEELE: "The fashion world is the industry for me. It's definitely its own world. It has its own discourse3. You could call it voguespeak, I guess. Vogue4 being, of course, the number one fashion magazine internationally.
AP: Indeed, Vogue is the premier5 go-to place for both industry professionals and the public to see a designer's line, a word that FIT assistant curator Fred Dennis says means about the same thing as a designer's collection:
FRED DENNIS: "A collection is what a designer will produce [in] any given season. It can be anywhere from twenty-five to a hundred pieces depending on the designer. Pieces are looks. A look is a total head-to-toe ensemble6. So you can start with a hat perhaps, a top, shoes."AP: "Ensemble" is one of dozens of French words used every day in the world of haute couture, a phrase that translates literally7 as high culture but which also connotes the glamorous8, expensive side of fashion -- or, as they say, la mode. Again, Valerie Steele.
VALERIE STEELE: "So you talk about decolletage [day-coe-la-TAHGE] for example, which is the noun referring to a neckline of say a dress, usually a low neckline, as in a plunging9 decolletage."AP: The fashion world sometimes pokes10 fun at itself with terms like fashionista, meaning an almost obsessively11 knowledgeable12 expert on what's hot -- meaning in, or in fashion - and what's not. FIT's Tamsen Schwartzman contrasts fashionista with fashion victim.
TAMSEN SCHWARTZSMAN: "One who falls prey13 to the latest trends and fads15. They'll go out and buy something that lasts as a fad14 for only a couple of months. Fashion victims can also be the people who are cutting edge -- bringing some trend into the market."AP: "So I presume that the fashion industry likes these kind of 'victims.'"TAMSEN SCHWARTZSMAN: "Of course! They shop. They promote things that other people then catch on to, and buy."AP: Indeed, the business of fashion is all about desire, and so many fashion words convey judgments16 about what is attractive -- and what isn't. Many terms of fashion praise, such as dope, sharp and phat (it's spelled P-H-A-T) are borrowed from popular music and the hip17-hop scene.
And, according to Emily Berry at Parsons The New School for Design, another New York fashion school, just what will be considered phat in two seasons can be seen right now on what insiders call the catwalk.
EMILY BERRY: "Which is a colloquial18 word for 'runway.' It's usually a stage from where models will walk down to display the fashions of the line and they walk in a very straight line much like a cat would, one foot in front of the other. And the term catwalk was also made popular by the song: 'I'm too sexy, on the catwalk, on the catwalk, yeah.'"(STUDENTS SINGING)AP: All the young women in Emily's class know that song, just as all agree with classmate Stella Kim, who says that some clothes, such as the mom pant, can never be sexy.
STELLA KIM: "And it refers any pant that seems excessively high on the waist and in the back, which tends to accentuate19 the gluteus maximus [buttocks] and also the front, also known as the mom pooch [the stomach area]."AP: "So it's not necessarily a complimentary20 term."STELLA KIM: "Not necessarily, no."AP: Nor, adds Emily Berry, is the term muffin top.
EMILY BERRY: "It's when you have a lot of women who are wearing pants or skirts that are too tight for them, so all of the fat that would normally reside in their pants has bubbled over the top. The love handles just sort of explode above the hip line."AP: Many fashion phrases can be either positive or negative, depending on the context. Fashion Institute of Technology curator Molly Sorkin cites the phrase over the top as another example.
MOLLY SORKIN: "'Over the top' is used to mean that something is just kind of beyond and too much. And it can refer to excess in good ways and bad ways. So you can have some amazing couture dress that is over the top, or somebody can be over the top because it's a little crazy."AP: It all depends on the zeitgeist, adds Sorkin.
MOLLY SORKIN: "It's kind of what is in the air and what is now, and what is happening. That's kind of tricky21 because once something is now, it's also kind of over."AP: For many, the fleeting22 nature of fashion trends may be part of their charm. Today, pink handbags, for example, might be chic23 -- the word means fashionable -- but tomorrow, they'll be so yesterday.
However, one thing does remain constant: as long as people wear clothes and want to be admired for them, there will be fashion, and people will talk. For Wordmaster, I'm Adam Phillips reporting from New York.
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1 specialized | |
adj.专门的,专业化的 | |
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2 marketing | |
n.行销,在市场的买卖,买东西 | |
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3 discourse | |
n.论文,演说;谈话;话语;vi.讲述,著述 | |
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4 Vogue | |
n.时髦,时尚;adj.流行的 | |
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5 premier | |
adj.首要的;n.总理,首相 | |
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6 ensemble | |
n.合奏(唱)组;全套服装;整体,总效果 | |
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7 literally | |
adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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8 glamorous | |
adj.富有魅力的;美丽动人的;令人向往的 | |
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9 plunging | |
adj.跳进的,突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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10 pokes | |
v.伸出( poke的第三人称单数 );戳出;拨弄;与(某人)性交 | |
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11 obsessively | |
ad.着迷般地,过分地 | |
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12 knowledgeable | |
adj.知识渊博的;有见识的 | |
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13 prey | |
n.被掠食者,牺牲者,掠食;v.捕食,掠夺,折磨 | |
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14 fad | |
n.时尚;一时流行的狂热;一时的爱好 | |
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15 fads | |
n.一时的流行,一时的风尚( fad的名词复数 ) | |
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16 judgments | |
判断( judgment的名词复数 ); 鉴定; 评价; 审判 | |
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17 hip | |
n.臀部,髋;屋脊 | |
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18 colloquial | |
adj.口语的,会话的 | |
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19 accentuate | |
v.着重,强调 | |
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20 complimentary | |
adj.赠送的,免费的,赞美的,恭维的 | |
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21 tricky | |
adj.狡猾的,奸诈的;(工作等)棘手的,微妙的 | |
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22 fleeting | |
adj.短暂的,飞逝的 | |
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23 chic | |
n./adj.别致(的),时髦(的),讲究的 | |
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