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This is the only horse race in the world to be run at the edge of the sea. Held once a year on Laytown Beach near Dublin, it reflects Ireland’s centuries-old love affair with the horse. Man has bred these horses for speed and endurance. He has left his own mark on what time and nature have already made, just as he helped to mold the Irish landscape, animals, and plants.
And before humans, older, more profound forces were at work. This ancient land might seem timeless but change lies at its very heart. Ireland has rarely stood still. Ireland’s hills and mountains are formed from her oldest, hardest rocks. They’re part of the legacy1 of her geological past, the foundation on which this island is built.
But the landscapes we see today have more recent origins. Everywhere Ireland has been sculpted2 in some way by one of the greatest forces of nature, ice. For almost two million years, Ireland, like the rest of Europe was locked in the grip of the ice age. Glaciers3, vast moving sheets of ice destroyed nearly all life and transformed the contours of the land. No part of Ireland completely escaped their impact. In the mountains of Mourne in Northern Ireland, the glaciers never quite reach the summits, but the cold they carried with them did. Frost actions split and shattered the rock faces, chiseling4 steep ravines and deeply carved peaks.
One bird of the mountains has made the most of this ice age legacy-- the Peregrine Falcon5 comes to the Mournes to nest. Remote rock faces and inaccessible6 ledges7 are the safest place to raise their chicks. And the land around provides good hunting for the adults-- all good reasons why there’re more Peregrines here than anywhere else in Ireland. But even Peregrines couldn’t have lived here until the ice age ended, around 13,000 years ago. Exactly when they staked their claim to Ireland Uplands isn’t clear. But since then their fortunes, like everything else, here have changed with the times. Today they’re wide spread throughout the country. But less than 40 years ago, Peregrines hit an all-time low. Poisoned by insecticides designed to protect seeds and crops, their numbers died to just 27 successful nesting pairs, bringing them paralyzedly close to extinction8. Only when the chemicals were banned did the Peregrines recovery begin. It’s been a slow process, but they are now thriving and reclaiming9 the mountain landscape they inherited from the ice.
Ireland’s mountains lie scattered10 around her edge, encircling a watery11 landscape of rivers, streams, lakes, fens12, and barks. On her west coast in County Mayo stands Ireland’s most sacred mountain, Croagh Patrick. On this summit, Ireland’s patron saint is believed to have fasted for 40 days and nights. And today more than 1500 years later, the mountain remains13 a place of pilgrimage. Every year on Reek14 Sunday, the last Sunday in July, more than 25,000 people follow in St. Patrick’s footsteps. As the pilgrims make their steep descent, the view before them is another with its feet in the ice age, Clew Bay.
Well-backed islands are a testimony15 to the power of glaciers. Stones and soil were trapped beneath their massive weight and molded into mini-hills called Drummans. Then when the ice retreated and sea levels rose, these glacial relics16 were partly submerged, creating a drowned landscape.
In this water world, even the sheep are shepherded by boat, in traditional currachs powered by modern outboard motors. The popular belief is that there are 365 islands in Clew Bay, one for each day of the year. They are sheltered from the more extreme conditions of the North Atlantic and their rocky shorelines are a sanctuary17 for common seals.
Clew Bay is one of those corners of Ireland that feels frozen in time. Whole communities once carved a living from these islands, animals grazed, and homesteads grew up around small sheltered bays. But famine drove many away and changing time has made this kind of life uneconomic today. Only seven of the islands are still inhabited.
There are ghosts of past lives all along this stretch of coast. Rockfleet Castle was one of many belonging to Grace O’Malley, Queen of the Clew Bay pirates, who ruled these waters in the 16th century. The network of tiny isles18 and bays provided ideal hideaways for the pirate galleys19, the plundered20 passing ships. It’s hard to imagine such a turbulent past. All that's likely to disturb these waters today are otters21 hunting for food.
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1 legacy | |
n.遗产,遗赠;先人(或过去)留下的东西 | |
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2 sculpted | |
adj.经雕塑的 | |
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3 glaciers | |
冰河,冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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4 chiseling | |
v.凿,雕,镌( chisel的现在分词 ) | |
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5 falcon | |
n.隼,猎鹰 | |
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6 inaccessible | |
adj.达不到的,难接近的 | |
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7 ledges | |
n.(墙壁,悬崖等)突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 );(平窄的)壁架;横档;(尤指)窗台 | |
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8 extinction | |
n.熄灭,消亡,消灭,灭绝,绝种 | |
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9 reclaiming | |
v.开拓( reclaim的现在分词 );要求收回;从废料中回收(有用的材料);挽救 | |
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10 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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11 watery | |
adj.有水的,水汪汪的;湿的,湿润的 | |
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12 fens | |
n.(尤指英格兰东部的)沼泽地带( fen的名词复数 ) | |
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13 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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14 reek | |
v.发出臭气;n.恶臭 | |
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15 testimony | |
n.证词;见证,证明 | |
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16 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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17 sanctuary | |
n.圣所,圣堂,寺庙;禁猎区,保护区 | |
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18 isles | |
岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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19 galleys | |
n.平底大船,战舰( galley的名词复数 );(船上或航空器上的)厨房 | |
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20 plundered | |
掠夺,抢劫( plunder的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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21 otters | |
n.(水)獭( otter的名词复数 );獭皮 | |
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