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Nowhere is Japan's quiet luxury more evident than in its onsen ryokans - traditional inns with hot springs - Ou Shuyi finds
Japan's charm is often compared to that of the ideal beauty, subtle and elusive1 - you can hardly resist it even though you cannot fully2 understand it. Here, beauty lies in the depth of simplicity3 and comes in tiny packages: the dessert plates on dinner tables, the straw smell of the tatami mats on the floor.
This is a world of quiet luxury, with nary a trace of flashiness, every detail deliciously exquisite4 in its utter simplicity.
I got to experience this understated elegance5 and luxury at Asaba, one of the country's best onsen ryokans (Japanese-style inn with hot springs), during my recent trip to Japan.
Nestled in the mountainous town of Shuzenji on the Izu peninsula, about two hours by train from Tokyo, the 510-year-old inn has been run by the Asaba family for 10 generations and is a good marriage of history and nature, of the traditional and the modern.
The entrance is so inconspicuous - a wooden gate at the end of a narrow path - we think we have wandered up to the front door of someone's house.
However, as with many things in Japan, size quickly becomes unimportant amid the expansive charm and elegance we encounter inside.
Japanese hospitality fills every nook and cranny. Kimono-clad staff greet us like old friends, with their gracious deep bows and pleasant smiles. The personalized service of the housemaids is unobtrusive and effective.
Plainly put, simply grand
Slippers6 appear as soon as we take off our shoes at the door. Hot towels, green tea and sweets appear one after another while we wait in the lobby. Guided by another round of bows, we are led to our suite7. No language is needed - everything is perfectly8 understood.
Built in traditional Japanese style, the complex is defined by its intricate, carved landscape. A well-tended garden, surrounded by a bamboo grove9, with a pond at its heart, is like a piece of living artwork, every detail meticulously10 crafted. Beyond the pond is a stage, built with cypress11 wood at the end of Meiji era (1868-1912), where traditional Noh plays and modern productions are staged.
A large open-air pool, enclosed by smooth rocks, juts12 into the pond. Visitors can enjoy the beautiful landscape while taking a dip in the steaming water of a natural hot spring.
Creaking wooden corridors and stairs lead to 19 guest suites13, each with a poetic14 name - instead of a number - and each with a fantastic view. Inside, the room's minimalist style features clean, uncomplicated lines. Woven-rattan chairs covered in indigo-cotton cushions are arranged around a low lacquered table. A recessed15 alcove16 with a hanging scroll17 serves as the centerpiece.
Plainly put, simply grand
Asaba may be ancient, but it certainly is not outdated18. It has quietly moved with the times while preserving its proudest traditions. From the floor heating to the modern bathrooms, visitors can sense a comfort that rivals that of any five-star hotel around the world.
On a table next to the pebbled19 entranceway, I notice a black leather Hermes desk pad. Kazuhide Asaba, the family's eldest20 son, says he wants to transform the inn into the kind of place he himself would want to stay in. A bar-cum-reading-room outfitted21 with Bertoia chairs and a collection of books on art and fashion photography hints at his ambitions.
"Every year we keep improving our suites to meet the market demand," says Airi Asaba, Kazuhide's younger sister and the only English-speaking staff member in Asaba. The 40-year-old had once worked with Japan Travel Bureau in Tokyo, and the experience has helped a lot with the management of Asaba.
Most of the ryokans in Shuzenji, a town of 17,000, are family businesses. Local tourism was severely22 hit by the global economic downtown last year. About 20 of the ryokans were closed, leaving only 20 still in business. Asaba also saw a 15 percent decrease in business.
Usually, the inn receives about 8,000 visitors every year, most of them Japanese. To expand its potential market, Asaba has recently cooperated with Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo. The two-night Asaba Package, promoted by Shangri-La, is expected to bring more new guests to this age-old inn.
"We had been looking for a partner ryokan for a long time. Asaba's age-old history, picturesque23 location and high-quality service make it a jewel among thousands of ryokans," says Stanley Tan, sales and marketing24 director of Shangri-La, Tokyo.
The apex25 of our short stay in Asaba is the dinner. Sitting in our yukatas (Japanese cotton garment) at a low table, we are served plate after plate of local delicacies26. Each is arranged on special ceramic27 plates and lacquer ware28.
The 12 courses, including steamed yuba (tofu skin), fried bamboo shoot, sashimi of tuna, grilled29 lotus, eel30 sushi with black rice, chicken soup, and pumpkin31 and ginger32 ice cream, are a feast for both the eyes and taste buds.
No appetite will go unsatisfied here and the unique and tranquil33 dining experience can enchant34 the most jaded35 gourmet36.
For years Asaba has drawn37 the rich, the powerful and the famous, including former President of France, Jacques Chirac.
Of course, the $400 a night charge may be too much for most travelers. But the sheer delight of staying somewhere so lush in its simplicity and experiencing the best of Japanese hospitality is worth every penny.
Life> Travel
Plainly put, simply grand
By Ou Shuyi (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-04-05 08:52
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'As soon as the water touches my skin, all stress melts away'
Asaba Ryokan's outdoor hot-spring pool has a sign that says, "No swimming suits".
Intimidated38 at first - it is too embarrassing to strip down in front of a bunch of strangers - I decide to have a go early in the morning.
I'm up at 6 and head to the pool. It is raining and a little bit cold, but the pool is absolutely empty.
Perfect! Actually, even better than perfect. The thin drizzle39 shrouds40 the garden and the bamboo grove around the pool in a mist, even as steam rises above the piping hot water, creating a magical, dream-like scene.
I lower myself gingerly into the water and as soon as the water touches my skin, I feel all my stress melt away.
Bathing is serious business in Japan. The Japanese insist that their springs, located in one of the most volcanically41 active zones on Earth, can ease everything from arthritis42 to skin disease.
"We Japanese find few things more relaxing than taking a hot bath," says Airi Asaba, executive manager of Asaba Ryokan.
The hot springs in Shuzenji, where Asaba is located, are one of the oldest in the country. According to folklore43, a Buddhist44 monk45 Kukai magically transformed the rushing waters of a river from cold to hot, some 1,200 years ago.
For centuries, legions of stressed-out Japanese have traveled to this small town to take a curative dip.
Sitting alone in the steaming pool, I close my eyes and let the water work its magic. Barring the steady plop of raindrops, nothing breaks the silence as every muscle in my body goes limp with contentment.
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1 elusive | |
adj.难以表达(捉摸)的;令人困惑的;逃避的 | |
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2 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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3 simplicity | |
n.简单,简易;朴素;直率,单纯 | |
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4 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
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5 elegance | |
n.优雅;优美,雅致;精致,巧妙 | |
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6 slippers | |
n. 拖鞋 | |
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7 suite | |
n.一套(家具);套房;随从人员 | |
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8 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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9 grove | |
n.林子,小树林,园林 | |
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10 meticulously | |
adv.过细地,异常细致地;无微不至;精心 | |
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11 cypress | |
n.柏树 | |
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12 juts | |
v.(使)突出( jut的第三人称单数 );伸出;(从…)突出;高出 | |
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13 suites | |
n.套( suite的名词复数 );一套房间;一套家具;一套公寓 | |
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14 poetic | |
adj.富有诗意的,有诗人气质的,善于抒情的 | |
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15 recessed | |
v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的过去式和过去分词 );将(墙)做成凹形,在(墙)上做壁龛;休息,休会,休庭 | |
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16 alcove | |
n.凹室 | |
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17 scroll | |
n.卷轴,纸卷;(石刻上的)漩涡 | |
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18 outdated | |
adj.旧式的,落伍的,过时的;v.使过时 | |
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19 pebbled | |
用卵石铺(pebble的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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20 eldest | |
adj.最年长的,最年老的 | |
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21 outfitted | |
v.装备,配置设备,供给服装( outfit的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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22 severely | |
adv.严格地;严厉地;非常恶劣地 | |
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23 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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24 marketing | |
n.行销,在市场的买卖,买东西 | |
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25 apex | |
n.顶点,最高点 | |
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26 delicacies | |
n.棘手( delicacy的名词复数 );精致;精美的食物;周到 | |
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27 ceramic | |
n.制陶业,陶器,陶瓷工艺 | |
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28 ware | |
n.(常用复数)商品,货物 | |
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adj. 烤的, 炙过的, 有格子的 动词grill的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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30 eel | |
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32 ginger | |
n.姜,精力,淡赤黄色;adj.淡赤黄色的;vt.使活泼,使有生气 | |
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33 tranquil | |
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34 enchant | |
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35 jaded | |
adj.精疲力竭的;厌倦的;(因过饱或过多而)腻烦的;迟钝的 | |
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36 gourmet | |
n.食物品尝家;adj.出于美食家之手的 | |
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37 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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38 intimidated | |
v.恐吓;威胁adj.害怕的;受到威胁的 | |
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39 drizzle | |
v.下毛毛雨;n.毛毛雨,蒙蒙细雨 | |
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40 shrouds | |
n.裹尸布( shroud的名词复数 );寿衣;遮蔽物;覆盖物v.隐瞒( shroud的第三人称单数 );保密 | |
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41 volcanically | |
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42 arthritis | |
n.关节炎 | |
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43 folklore | |
n.民间信仰,民间传说,民俗 | |
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44 Buddhist | |
adj./n.佛教的,佛教徒 | |
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45 monk | |
n.和尚,僧侣,修道士 | |
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