在迈阿密，人们热烈庆祝菲德尔.卡斯特罗(Fidel Castro)的去世；在哈瓦那，人们的情绪是震惊和不相信。

　　In La Tropical dance spot in Havana, a salsa band suddenly stopped playing on Friday night when the news of Castro’s death became public. An announcer came on stage and said simply: “Force majeure. We have to suspend the activities. Fidel Castro has died.”

　　在哈瓦那的“热带”(La Tropical)舞场，上周五晚当卡斯特罗去世的消息逐渐传开时，一支萨尔萨乐队突然停止演出。一名报幕员来到舞台上，简要地说道：“不可抗力。我们必须暂停活动。菲德尔.卡斯特罗去世了。”

　　“There was no audible response. Just quiet. Any Cuban in the audience younger than me has never known any other reality,” said Ned Sublette, the 65-year old US jazz critic and author of a history of Cuban music. “I stood there with my jaw open; a woman came up to me and pushed it shut.”

　　“听不到什么反应。只有寂静。观众中任何比我年轻的古巴人从来不知道有其他任何现实，”65岁的美国爵士评论家、曾就古巴音乐史著述的奈德.萨布利特(Ned Sublette)表示。“我呆站在那里，嘴张着；一位女士走上前来，把我的嘴合上。”

　　By contrast, in Miami, home to most of the US’s 2m strong Cuban-American exile community, there was noisy jubilation. Margarita Fernández, a university student, was at home when she heard the news late on Friday. She rushed down the stairs and into Calle 8, the heartland of Miami’s Cuban community, where a programmed Friday street party was already taking place.

　　相比之下，在居住着200多万流亡到美国的古巴裔美国人的迈阿密，人们欢欣鼓舞。大学生玛格丽塔.费尔南德斯(Margarita Fernández)上周五晚间在家里听到这条新闻。她冲下楼梯，来到迈阿密古巴社区的心脏地带——第八街(Calle 8)，那里有一个原先安排的周五街头派对正在举行中。

　　“There was hugging, celebrating, hooting of horns, everyone — young and old — were whopping it up,” she said. “It was incredible, there was an uproar.”

　　“人们拥抱，欢呼，按喇叭，每个人——无论老幼——都欢欢喜喜，”她说。“那一幕令人难以置信，人群简直沸腾了。”

　　Similar scenes were repeated around Miami as news of Castro’s death spread. Meanwhile, on Saturday morning, thousands of miles away in Madrid, pro- and anti-Fidel Castro groups scuffled outside the Cuban embassy, witnesses said.

　　随着卡斯特罗去世的消息传开，类似的情景在迈阿密全市各地出现。另据目击者介绍，上周六上午，在几千英里以外的马德里，拥护和反对菲德尔.卡斯特罗的人群在古巴大使馆门外发生肢体冲突。

　　Castro’s death comes as no surprise. Aged 90, he was rarely seen in public and, when he did appear, it was only briefly and looking weak and infirm. Fidel’s younger brother Raúl, 85, formally took over the reins of power in 2008 as president, and his government has long planned for this moment.

　　卡斯特罗的去世并不让人意外。90岁的他近来已很少在公共场合露面，而当他难得露面时，他看起来虚弱和衰老，而且总是匆匆离去。菲德尔的弟弟、现年85岁的劳尔(Raúl)在2008年正式接掌大权，出任总统，他的政府为这一刻已经准备了好久。

　　As Saturday dawned in Cuba, there was no opposition activity reported on the streets, nor any visible sign of increased state presence — unless you count the carpenters building a stage in Revolution Square for a memorial service scheduled for Tuesday.

　　上周六拂晓时分，没有传出反对派在古巴街头活动的报道，也看不到明显的政府活动迹象——除非你把在革命广场(Revolution Square)搭建一座舞台的木匠们算进去，这里将在周二举行追悼会。

　　But state-run media poured forth endless tributes — including the start of nine days of mourning; the sale of alcohol was banned; and community organisations linked to the Communist party, such as the Woman’s Federation, held rallies where chants of “Viva Fidel” rang out weakly.

　　但是官方媒体没完没了地表示哀悼——包括九天哀悼的开始；禁止出售酒类；共产党外围的社区组织（例如妇联）举行集会，反复低声呼喊“万岁菲德尔”(Viva Fidel)。

　　“Cuba became a country of silent people this Saturday,” tweeted Yoani Sánchez, publisher of the independent news website, 14yMedio.com.

　　“古巴在本周六成了一个由沉默的人们组成的国家，”独立新闻网站14yMedio.com的站主雅尼.桑切斯(Yoani Sánchez)在Twitter上写道。

　　“It is like everyone is just sad,” added Anaida Gonzales, a retired nurse in the central province of Camaguey. Castro’s death “was expected but it still came as a shock”.

　　“就像每个人都沉浸在悲伤中，”居住在中部省份卡马圭(Camaguey)的退休护士阿纳伊达.冈萨雷斯(Anaida Gonzales)补充道。卡斯特罗去世“是意料之中的事情，但它的来临仍然让人震惊”。

　　Amid the uncertainty, at least what happens immediately next is clear. Castro’s body was cremated on Saturday and, after the memorial service in Havana on Tuesday, his ashes will move in a procession east across the country to Santiago, the country’s second biggest city, known as the “cradle of the revolution”. There they will be put to rest on Sunday, December 4.

　　在充满不确定性的大背景下，至少接下来的安排是清楚的。卡斯特罗的遗体已在上周六火化，周二在哈瓦那举行追悼会之后，载着他的骨灰的游行车队将一路东行，最终抵达古巴第二大城市、有“革命的摇篮”之称的圣地亚哥。他的骨灰将在12月4日（周日）在那里下葬。

　　Beyond the memorial plans, however, there is uncertainty. Cuba and its 11m people find themselves at a crossroads. Mr Castro’s death comes as Venezuela, facing its own economic crisis, has scaled back its aid to Cuba. Castro’s death also comes as the policy of rapprochement led by Barack Obama — which has relaxed but not ended the longstanding US embargo — could be rolled back by Donald Trump.

　　然而，除了悼念计划外，其他事情都处于不确定状态。古巴及其1100万人民正处于一个十字路口。卡斯特罗去世之际，正值面临本国经济危机的委内瑞拉减少了对古巴的援助。与此同时，美国现任总统巴拉克.奥巴马(Barack Obama)主导的和解政策——该项政策放松（但没有终结）长期的美国禁运——可能被候任总统唐纳德.特朗普(Donald Trump)逆转。

　　The president-elect has blown hot and cold on Mr Obama’s policy of détente, at first saying during his campaign that he supported it but would seek “a better deal”, then pledging to “reverse” Mr Obama’s approach.

　　特朗普对奥巴马的缓和政策表现出忽热忽冷的态度，在竞选期间最初表示支持，只不过会寻求“更划算的交易”，后来则承诺“扭转”奥巴马的政策。

　　For now normalcy rules. In Miami, there were neither reports of violence nor arrests, and officials told the Associated Press there were no plans to activate the emergency operations centre either – another sign of the generally subdued reaction.

　　就目前而言，局面大致正常。迈阿密没有传出暴力或逮捕的报道，同时美国官员们告诉美联社(Associated Press)，没有计划启动紧急行动指挥中心(Emergency Operations Center)——这是总体反应平静的又一个迹象。

　　The US coast guard also ran regular patrols and has not taken emergency measures, despite a recent rise in the number of Cubans seeking to arrive in Florida by sea. More than 7,400 attempted the perilous crossing in the 12 months to September 30, versus 4,400 the year before.

　　美国海岸警卫队也仅执行常规巡逻，没有采取紧急措施，尽管近期寻求从海上抵达佛罗里达的古巴人有所增加。截至9月30日的12个月里，逾7400名古巴人投奔怒海，而上一年为4400人。

　　In Cuba, state-newspaper Granma, despite thousands of words of praise, notably avoided using the word “death”. Instead, in a sign of how Havana plans to close ranks around Castro’s memory, the paper wrote how “Cuba’s great baseball slugger” had “left the realm of this world for immortality”.

　　在古巴，官方的《格拉玛报》(Granma)连篇累牍地发表赞美之词，但明显避免提到“死亡”这个字眼。相反，突显哈瓦那计划如何以追忆卡斯特罗来号召众人的一个迹象是，该报写道，“古巴的伟大棒球手（卡斯特罗）”已经“离开尘世，得到永生”。