2019年经济学人 印度阶梯井(1)（在线收听）

Books & arts

来源于《图书和艺术》版块

Conservation in India

印度的保护

Liquid assets

流动资产

India’s neglected but magnificent stepwells are relics of a nuanced history

印度被忽视但宏伟的阶梯井是一段微妙历史的遗迹

The story goes that devout followers of Nizamuddin Auliya, a Sufi saint who lived from 1238 to 1325, had already begun work on his baoli or stepwell when Ghazi Malik, the new sultan of Delhi, ordered all projects to stop until the construction of an impregnable citadel for him was finished. Out of adoration for Nizamuddin, the labourers worked on the fortress by day and the baoli by night. Enraged, Ghazi Malik banned the sale of oil for lamps—whereupon Nizamuddin blessed the well’s water and told his followers to use that instead. Miraculously, it burned.

据说尼扎穆丁·奥利亚的虔诚追随者，是一位生活在1238年至1325年之间的苏菲派圣人，当德里的新苏丹加齐?马利克下令停止所有项目，只为他建造一座坚不可摧的城堡，这位追随者就已经开始他的baoli或称之为阶梯井的工作了。出于对尼扎穆丁的崇拜，工人们白天在堡垒上干活，晚上在为baoli干活。愤怒的加齐·马利克下令禁止销售油灯，于是尼扎穆丁为井水祈福，并告诉他的追随者改用井水。奇迹般地，竟也能燃烧。

Today, Nizamuddin remains one of South Asia’s most admired Sufi saints. His message of tolerance and humanity appeals in an age when political leaders preach communal division. Not just Muslims but Hindus, Sikhs and Christians flock to his dargah, or shrine, in New Delhi, where qawwali songs of devotion are performed. Thousands crowd every day down the narrow, beggar-lined passageway that runs alongside the baoli on their way to strewing rose petals on the holy man’s tomb. Many pilgrims believe in the healing power of the baoli water.

今天，尼扎穆丁仍然是南亚最受尊敬的苏菲派圣人之一。在当今这个政治领导人鼓吹社会分裂的时代，他所传递的宽容和人道的信息颇具吸引力。不仅是穆斯林，印度教徒、锡克教徒和基督徒也纷纷涌向他在新德里的达迦或圣地，在那里人们唱着qawwali敬拜之歌。每天都有成千上万的人挤在包丽河边狭窄的、沿街乞讨的过道上，他们要把玫瑰花瓣撒在圣人的坟墓上。许多朝圣者相信baoli水的治疗作用。

Until recently that water was filthy. The tank was full of rubbish; the neighbourhood’s raw sewage flowed into it. Worse, the structure, which is more than 160 feet (49 metres) deep, was in an advanced state of dilapidation. One section of its walls of grey Delhi quartzite had collapsed. Other parts were bulging alarmingly—and, for the dozens of families who had built homes atop them, perilously.

而之前那里的水都很脏，直到最近才有所好转。水箱里装满了垃圾；社区里未经处理的污水流入其中。更糟糕的是，这座超过160英尺(49米)深的建筑已经处于破损的晚期。其中一段灰色的德里石英岩墙已经倒塌。其他部分也在惊人地膨胀——对于那些在上面盖房子的几十个家庭来说，这是非常危险的。