英国卫报:人类的感官重要吗?该如何修复?(9)(在线收听) |
The cookery writer Diana Henry has written frankly of how she released herself from a destructive cycle of yo-yo dieting, which she calls “the whole deprivation/rebellion, eating too little/overindulging rollercoaster”. 烹饪作家戴安娜·亨利曾坦率地写道,她如何将自己从溜溜球式节食的破坏性循环中解脱出来,她称之为“完全剥夺/叛逆,吃得太少/过度放纵的过山车”。 In her 2014 book A Change of Appetite, Henry described how she was helped in this by adopting some of the principles of Japanese cuisine, which involve an intense appreciation of the sensory details in a meal. 在她2014年出版的《食欲的改变》一书中,亨利描述了她是如何通过采用日本料理的一些原则来帮助她做到这一点的,这些原则涉及对一顿饭的感官细节的强烈的欣赏。 Instead of asking how many calories a meal contains -- calorie-counting is the very antithesis of sensory -- a more fruitful and guilt-free approach to healthy eating is to notice and enjoy the balance of colours and textures and techniques in a meal while you are cooking and eating it. 与其问一顿饭包含多少卡路里--卡路里计算与感官截然相反--更有成效、更无愧疚的健康饮食方法是在做饭和吃的同时注意并享受一顿饭的颜色、质地和技巧的平衡。 As Henry writes, “Eating is not just about sating appetite, but about appreciating, with all your senses, what is put before you.” 正如亨利所写的,“吃不仅仅是满足食欲,而且是用你所有的感官欣赏摆在你面前的东西。 In some cases, making better use of the sense of smell can be a way to restore appetite when it has vanished. 在某些情况下,更好地利用嗅觉可以在食欲消失时恢复食欲。 Many people living with dementia lose their interest in food and can become at risk of malnutrition. 许多痴呆症患者对食物失去兴趣,并可能面临营养不良的风险。 In 2013, Rodd, a British design firm, came up with a new product called Ode aimed at helping dementia sufferers to eat better. 2013年,英国设计公司Rodd推出了一款名为Ode的新产品,旨在帮助痴呆症患者吃得更好。 The device released waves of familiar food fragrances three times a day, in order to trigger positive food memories, and hence a desire to eat. 该设备每天三次释放熟悉的食物香味,以触发积极的食物记忆,从而产生进食的欲望。 The fragrances included comfort foods such as fruit pies, casseroles and curries. 香味包括水果馅饼、砂锅菜和咖喱等令人舒适的食物。 During a test phase, Rodd found that around 50% of the dementia sufferers who had been exposed to the food smells either stabilised their weight or gained weight. 在测试阶段,罗德发现,暴露在食物气味中的痴呆症患者中,大约50%的人体重稳定或增加。 There are signs that modern societies could yet transition towards a new and more engaged culture of the senses. 有迹象表明,现代社会仍有可能过渡到一种新的、更具参与性的感官文化。 One factor helping to make this change could be the anti-plastics movement. 促成这一变化的一个因素可能是反塑料运动。 On 1 January this year, the French government banned supermarkets and other shops from selling 30 types of fruits and vegetables – including cucumbers – in plastic wrapping. 今年1月1日,法国政府禁止超市和其他商店销售包括黄瓜在内的30种塑料包装的水果和蔬菜。 The motive for the reform was ecological rather than sensory: the French environment minister said that there must be limits on the “outrageous” proliferation of single-use plastic. 这项改革的动机是生态而非感官上的:法国环境部长表示,必须对一次性塑料的“令人发指的”扩散进行限制。 Some have defended items such as the shrink-wrapped cucumber on the grounds that the plastic actually helps reduce food waste. 一些人为塑料薄膜包装的黄瓜等物品辩护,理由是这种塑料实际上有助于减少食物浪费。 Stephen Dubner, author of Freakonomics, has cited evidence from cucumber growers that just 1.5g of plastic wrap can extend a cucumber’s life in the fridge by as much as 14 days. 《魔鬼经济学》的作者斯蒂芬·杜布纳引用了来自黄瓜种植者的证据,称需1.5克塑料薄膜就可以将黄瓜在冰箱中的寿命延长多达14天。 |
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