Three years after the 2008 war between Georgia and Russia, the temporary ceasefire lines between the two look increasingly like permanent borders.
2008年格鲁吉亚与俄罗斯爆发战争，三年后的现在，两国间的临时停火线越来越像是永久边界。
In the heart of the Caucasus mountains, this ancient Georgian watch tower is useful once again. From the top, Adam Bartnicki, a European military monitor, studies military movements on the South Ossetian side of a ceasefire line.
在高加索山脉的中心地带，一座古老的格鲁吉亚了望塔又有了用途。欧洲军事观察员亚当.巴特尼基从了望塔的顶端，观察南奥塞梯这边停火线的军事动态。
Through powerful binoculars he sees two new Russian bases nearing completion. “In the area of our responsibility we have maybe nine or 12 Russian Federation border guards' bases. They are like mushrooms,” said Bartnicki.
从威力强大的望远镜中，亚当.巴特尼基看到两座俄罗斯基地接近完工。他说：“在我们的责任范围内，我们看到有大约9到12个俄罗斯边界守卫基地。这些基地像草菇一样不断冒出来。”
With their barracks, high fences and security lights, the new bases are home to 5,000 Russian military personnel stationed in South Ossetia - more than 10 times the number before the war.
一个个营房，高耸的围墙，以及保安灯光，这些新基地是五千名驻南奥塞梯俄罗斯军事人员的所在地，这个数目是战前人数的10倍多。
Nearby, Lia Chlachidze is one of the few civilians remaining in the border village, Ergeneti, Georgia. She lives among the abandoned grape arbors and charred ruins of 140 Georgian farmhouses burned during the five-day war.
在附近地方，利阿.奇拉齐德泽是少数还留在格鲁吉亚边界村庄埃尔盖提的平民之一。她的住所座落在荒废的葡萄园以及焦黑的农庄之间，有140个格鲁吉亚农庄在历时5天的战争中被烧毁。
“My parents are buried in the occupied territory," she said. "Who knows how many years will pass before I'm able to visit them. It's a human tragedy. I can't talk about it without crying."
利阿说：“我的父母埋葬在被占领的土地上。谁知道还要过多少年我才能去祭拜他们。这是人类悲剧。只要一说到这些事，总是会让我伤心落泪。”
Once a thriving market town, Ergeneti is now the end of the road for Georgia. At the heavily guarded police check point, the boundary is only crossed by stray dogs.
埃尔盖提曾经是繁荣的市场城镇，现在对格鲁吉亚而言是，则是道路的尽头。那里有警卫森严的岗哨，只有流浪狗通过这道边界线。
To the south, at a refugee camp in Gori, Nanuli Pervashvili bakes rolls for her family of four. She fled her apartment in South Ossetia, when the fighting started. “We left empty handed,” said Pervashvili.
在南边的戈里难民营里内，纳努莉.佩尔瓦利在为她的一家四口人烘烤小面包。战争爆发时，纳努莉从她在南奥塞梯的公寓逃走。纳努莉说，他们逃走时手无分文。
Nearby, five Georgian men gather for a game of backgammon - on a weekday morning. Shalva Erbakidze said they cannot return home. "We don't work. They won't hire our people. Because we are refugees,” he said.
不远处，有5位格鲁吉亚男子聚在一起玩步步高游戏，这是工作日的早上。其中一位沙尔瓦.厄尔贝基德泽说，他们是有家归不得。沙尔瓦说：“我们没有工作。他们不愿意雇用我们，因为我们是难民。”
In Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, debate rages again among Georgians as the August 8th war anniversary approaches.
在格鲁吉亚首都第比利斯，8月8号战争纪念日来临之际，格鲁吉亚人再一次愤怒的讨论著。
Opposition politician Nino Burjanadze says Georgia’s government will be celebrating a defeat on Monday.
反对派政界人士尼诺.布里扬纳德泽说，格鲁吉亚政府将在星期一庆祝战争胜利。
“Last year I raised a question to the government: We celebrated the 8th of August with fireworks and with concerts. I asked, "What did we celebrate? What are we celebrating for?" If we really won something, why does nobody in Georgia know about that including me?,” he said.
尼诺说：“我们用放烟火和举行音乐会来庆祝8月8号。去年我问政府说，‘我们庆祝的是什么？我们为什么要庆祝？如果我们真的赢了什么，为什么格鲁吉亚包括我在内，都没人知道呢？’”
In response, Georgian Foreign Ministry spokesman Tornike Gordadze says that the government celebrates defeating the Kremlin’s attempt to install a friendly, authoritarian government in Georgia.
作为回应，格鲁吉亚外交部发言人托尔尼克.格尔达德泽说，政府庆祝的是击败了克里姆林宫企图在格鲁吉亚设立一个友善但独裁的政府。
“We have survived. It was a very serious attempt to destroy our statehood," he said. "And the very objective of this war was not the occupation of these two regions, which still remain occupied today as 20 percent of the Georgian territory. But the objective was to destroy the current government and the current regime, to change the regime in Georgia.
他说：“我们熬了过来。那是个非常严肃的企图，想破坏我们建国。那场战争的真正目的并不是要占领这两个地区，那里有20%的格鲁吉亚领土现在还被占领着。其实，战争的目标是要摧毁目前的政府，要改变格鲁吉亚政权。”
One week before the anniversary, United States Marines wound up training exercises for Georgian soldiers. Officially, it was to prepare the Georgians for duty in Afghanistan. But many see these well publicized joint training exercises as a message that the West is watching the Russian military with more than binoculars.
离战争周年纪念还有一周之际，美国海军陆战队在为格鲁吉亚军人进行训练演习。官方的说法是，这是为格鲁吉亚军人在阿富汗执行任务作准备，但是很多人把这些大作宣传的联合训练演习看作是一种信息，表达了西方国家正在用望远镜以外的方式观察俄罗斯军方。 |