2019年经济学人 优衣库:回归根本 (2)（在线收听）

优衣库:回归根本 (2)

This success has surprised some, and not only because of ill-feeling towards Japan from many Chinese because of the latter's wartime record.

一些人对这一成功感到惊讶，不仅仅是很多中国人反感日本。

China is not an easy place to work, and, in clothing at least, Chinese consumers tend to revere brands.

中国并不是一个容易的工作地点，至少在服装上，中国消费者有品牌崇拜倾向。

But even the label-obsessed need plain bits and bobs for layering or co-ordination.

但为了分层或协作，标签迷恋也需要普通的零碎。

Chinese consumers are after quality, and UNIQLO's special fabrics, especially its Heattech range for cold weather, function well.

中国消费者追求质量，优衣库的特种面料，尤其是其冬季Heattech保暖衣效果不错。

Above all analysts point to the company's savvy Japan-educated Chinese executives who understand both the culture of the Japanese business and that of China.

分析师首先点名该公司的中国高管们，他们很懂行并在日本接受教育，能够理解日本和中国的商业文化。

But the rest of Asia may be harder to crack.

但是其他亚洲国家可能更难搞定。

For one thing, a warm climate in several countries means that UNIQLO cannot rely on its cold-weather products as a main driver of sales.

一方面，几个国家温暖的气候意味着优衣库无法依靠其冬季产品作为一个销售主打。

It may have to tweak its formula, which could be risky, says Takahiro Saito, a fashion-retail analyst and author of a book comparing UNIQLO and Zara.

可能还需要调整它的方案，这样很冒险，时尚零售分析师、优衣库和Zara比较书籍作者Takahiro Saito说到。

Though they are very different markets, Europe and America offer a cautionary tale.

虽然它们是非常不同的市场，欧洲和美国提供了一个警世故事。

UNIQLO in America struggled outside the big cities of the east and west coasts.

美国优衣库想要开拓东西海岸的大城市。

Growth in the heartlands remains elusive for UNIQLO both there and in Europe.

该地和欧洲的优衣库难以实现中心地带的增长。

In part that is because the same business model exists there already with firms such as Gap, says Mr Saito.

部分原因是因为那里已经有同样的商业模式存在了，比如Gap，Saito说到。

But UNIQLO could do better at explaining what it does.

但优衣库可以在解释这种模式的作用方面做得更好。

Well thought-out partnerships with ambassadors, such as tennis player Roger Federer,

和大使比如网球运动员罗杰·费德勒，深思熟虑的合作关系

and collaborations with designers, like Jil Sander, are starting to help.

以及和设计师，如吉尔·桑达的合作开始有所帮助了。

Mr Yanai, an ardent fan of globalisation unlike many Japanese executives

和很多日本高管不同，柳井正是全球化热忱的粉丝

(the firm's working language is English and many employees, even in Japan, are foreign),

（公司的工作语言是英语，很多甚至是在日本的雇员都是外国人），

is confident that he can guide UNIQLO through the changes needed.

他有信心自己可以引导优衣库通过所需的改良。

He also talks of expanding into shoes as well as dresses and skirts, where UNIQLO currently has only slim offerings.

他还谈到了进军鞋子以及裙子界，优衣库目前仅提供slim款。

The backlash against globalisation is the biggest risk to UNIQLO's Asian plans, he says.

他表示，反对全球化是优衣库亚洲计划的最大风险。

It could limit free movement of goods and people, disrupting both supply chains and workers.

这样会限制商品和顾客的自由移动，扰乱供应链和工人。

Still, a Japanese firm that has managed as much foreign success as UNIQLO should be able to cope.

但一家像优衣库这样在海外市场取得成功的日本公司应该能够应对。