国家地理 一次翻越世界屋脊的历史性旅行(6)（在线收听）

Irshad Pass rises 16,335 feet above sea level. We finally reached it at sunset. Paley ventured a feeble victory dance. I gulped air so thin and metallic it cut my lungs like razor blades. Gales had scoured the summit to raw bedrock. Without shelter or firewood, it was a hazardous place to camp. But we had little choice. A bitter dark was rising fast from the deep valleys. We unpacked our donkeys with difficulty -- the ropes were stiff as rebar -- and pounded our tent stakes into iron-cold earth. My frozen pants never thawed, not even inside my sleeping bag. I staggered out into the howling night only once, to wrap the donkeys in fluttering tarps. The animals' black eyes shone back accusingly in the white bore of my headlamp. I couldn't look at them.

伊尔沙德山口海拔16355英尺。我们在太阳东山的时候终于到达了山口，佩利冒险无力地跳了一会蹩脚的胜利之舞。我们大口喘气，钢刀似的空气像刀片一样划痛我的肺。大风已经把这座顶峰抹成光秃秃的岩床。没有庇护所，也没有点火的柴，这是个危险的宿营地。但我们没有别的选择。一股严寒刺骨的黑云从深谷里快速升起。我们吃力地卸掉驴子，那绳子像钢筋一样坚硬，然后把帐篷桩打进冰冷的铁板一样的地面。我那冻得硬绷绷的裤子没有解冻过，即使在睡袋里也没有解冻。我在狂风咆哮的夜里只摇摇晃晃地出去了一次，为的是把驴子裹猎猎飘动的油布里。驴子黑黑的眼睛责难地映回我头灯的白光，我不敢看着它们。

Plainclothes Pakistani security forces confronted us the next night while we camped at the eastern end of the Hindu Kush. We had notified the government of our plan to enter Pakistan via Irshad. We carried valid visas issued in advance. But the officers, armed with AK-47s, insisted we had trespassed into a restricted zone. They drove us to the frontier town of Gilgit. In detention there, I overheard Paley, curled on his cot, parroting in his emphatic Norman accent the lines from a film playing on his hidden mobile phone: "An eye for an eye only ends up making zee whole world blind."

第二天晚上我们在兴都库什东端宿营时，遇到了巴基斯坦便衣安全部队。我们曾经向政府通报我们经由伊尔沙德山口进入巴基斯坦，也携带了预先办好的有效签证。但这些军官用 AK47 对着我们，坚持我们擅自进入了禁区。他们把我们赶到了边陲小镇吉尔吉特。拘留在那里的时候，我无意中听到蜷缩在简易床上的佩利用明显的诺曼底口音机械地模仿他隐藏的移动电话播放的电影台词：“以眼还眼，结果只会使这整个世界都失明。”

"Matthieu," I whispered, "are you watching Gandhi in an intelligence agency safe house?"

“马蒂厄，”我低声道，“你在情报机关的安全室里看甘地吗？”