国家地理 没有垃圾的世界可能存在吗(8)（在线收听）

Clothes

服装

The emblem of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a set of nested circles, was on Dame Ellen's teal hoodie when we met in her headquarters, an old sailmaker's loft on the Isle of Wight. In 2005, at age 28, MacArthur finished sailing around the world on a 75-foot trimaran in a record time of just over 71 days—alone. She had packed 72 days' worth of food. She had raced storms off Antarctica and fixed a broken generator. She arrived home, having survived a microcosm of Spaceship Earth, with a visceral awareness of limited resources.

我来到怀特岛上一幢船帆厂老房子里的艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会总部，与拥有英国勋爵头衔的艾伦会面时，她的蓝绿色连帽衫上就带有该基金会的标识--几个嵌套的圆环。2005年，28岁的麦克阿瑟完成了独自驾驶23米长的双体船进行的环球航行，用时71天多一点，刷新了当时的记录。船上只装了够吃72天的食品。航程中，她曾在南极洲的近海与风暴竞速，修好过损坏的发电机。经历过那次微型的环游地球之旅，她带着对资源有限性的切身体会回到家中。

Why wasn't everyone talking about that? she wondered. She gave up competitive sailing and instead traded on her fame and access to corporate boardrooms -- "it would be a waste not to use it," she told me -- to establish an organization that has done more than any other to promote the circular economy, using a hierarchy of strategies. The best is the simplest: Waste less stuff by keeping it in use.

为什么当时没人谈论这个话题？她感到困惑。她放弃了竞技性帆航，利用自己的名气和与企业董事会打交道的渠道--她对我说“不利用就浪费了”--建起一个组织，以多层级策略推广循环经济，并成为这项事业的领头羊。最好的方式也是最简单的：通过延长使用期，降低物品浪费量。

That choice hits many people most acutely in their closets. From 2000 to 2015, while the world population grew by a fifth, clothing production doubled, according to an Ellen MacArthur Foundation report, thanks to the explosion of "fast fashion." With so many cheap clothes, the report estimated, the average item was worn a third fewer times by 2015. That year, the world threw away more than $450 billion worth of clothes.

这一选择对大多数人造成的最直接冲击体现在他们的衣橱里。根据艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会的一份报告，从2000年到2015年，世界人口增长了五分之一，但随着“快消时尚”的爆发，服装制造量翻了一倍。报告估计，由于存在如此多的廉价衣服，到2015年，每件衣服上身的机会减少了三分之一。今年，全世界丢弃的衣物价值逾4500亿美元。