PBS高端访谈:探寻一家生产面包的磨坊（在线收听）

JUDY WOODRUFF: And now the miller's tale. Among -- many of you will know that we have borrowed the title of this story from the medieval British poet Geoffrey Chaucer and his Canterbury Tales. Unlike that poem, full of adultery and trickery, we bring you a tale of uplift from a picturesque water mill from after Chaucer's era pressed back into service today to provide bakers and grocers fresh flour amid COVID-19 shortages. From the county of Dorset, 120 miles south West of London, special correspondent Malcolm Brabant reports.

朱迪·伍德拉夫：今天来聊聊磨坊主的故事。大家很多人都知道，我们借了中世纪英国诗人杰弗里·乔叟和《坎特伯雷故事集》中一则故事的标题。与那首关于通奸和欺骗的诗不同，今天讲的是乔叟时代后，磨坊主们在疫情期间资源紧缺的情况下为面包师和杂货商提供新鲜面粉的故事。在伦敦西南部120英里的地方有个郡叫多塞特，请听我台记者马尔科姆从那里发回的报道。

MALCOLM BRABANT: At Sturminster Newton, the dawn chorus and torrent of the River Stour provide an eternal soundscape. For more than 1,000 years, various water mills have stood here, producing high-quality flour, first for aristocrats, then the most powerful medieval monastery in England, and now, during the dark ages of COVID-19, ordinary folk like thee and me.

马尔科姆：在牛顿磨坊这里，清晨的鸟鸣和斯陶尔河奔流的水声时常在耳畔。1000多年来，许多水磨坊曾屹立在这里，生产着质量上好的面粉，先是给贵族们提供，然后是给英格兰最有权势的中世纪修道院提供。而在疫情肆虐期间，这些磨坊却坚持为像你我一样的平凡人提供面粉。

PETE LOOSMORE, Head Miller, Sturminster Newton Mill: If you could bring back the miller who was here in those days 1,000 years ago, and stand him by the millstones, he'd know exactly how they worked. So things haven't changed very much as far as milling process is concerned, over that time.

皮特，磨坊主，牛顿磨坊：如果能将1000年前这里的磨坊主重现到今天的话，那么只需让他们站在磨盘边上，他们就知道要如何运作了。所以虽然时间流失，但磨坊的原理却没怎么变。

MALCOLM BRABANT: Retired art teacher Pete Loosmore cranks up the water turbine that replaced the traditional water wheel over a century ago.

马尔科姆：退休的美术老师皮特启动了水轮机，代替了1个多世纪前的传统水轮。

PETE LOOSMORE: We have absolutely every scrap of the grain that goes into the millstones is actually used in the flour, so nothing is sieved out. We have the whole grain. And nothing is added as well. So, what we produce here in the way of flour is an absolutely pure flour, no additives whatsoever.

皮特：每一粒进入磨石的米都物尽其用了，没有筛掉的地方。所有米粒都用上了。而且也没有添加成分。所以我们用面粉的形式生产出来的东西都是纯面粉，无添加成分。

MALCOLM BRABANT: During the lockdown, there haven't been that many food shortages, but one staple that's been rather hard to find has been flour. And that's largely due to the popular British pastime of home baking. So, during the lockdown, people have been sourcing flour from wherever they can to make bread, cakes and pies. And stop yourself right there, because I know exactly what you're thinking. Who ate all the pies? The 500-year-old mill is normally a museum, only grinding small quantities of flour for visitors. But Loosmore stepped up production when the supply chain for local bakers and supermarkets collapsed.

马尔科姆：在疫情封锁期间，虽然没有粮食紧缺，但面粉却千金难得。这大概是因为英国人会以烘焙为消遣时间的方式。所以，在封锁期间，人们通过各种方式来获取面粉来做面包、蛋糕、派。先别说了，我知道你们在想什么。谁吃掉了那些派呢？这个500年历史的磨坊就像一个博物馆，为游客提供着少量的面粉。在当地面包师和超市的供应链断掉之后，Loosmore加大了自己的产量。

PETE LOOSMORE: They didn't seem to be able to restock. And here we were, ready for the next season, with something like a ton of grain stored away in the roof. We had the facility to make that grain into flour, and local people needed it.

皮特：它们似乎无法再储存。所以我们时刻准备迎接下一季，准备好把大量谷物存放在房顶。我们有设备，可以将谷物转化为面粉，而当地人确实需要面粉。

MALCOLM BRABANT: The mill's flour has been a godsend for this nearby artisan bakery, which set up a drive-in service to kick-start business.

马尔科姆：磨坊提供的面粉对附近的面包店来说是天赐之物，他们甚至还提供路边服务来帮助这门生意顺利开办。

SUE HARRIS, Customer: My husband likes white sliced, unfortunately. And that is just revolting. I mean, it's horrible texture, and it's got no flavor at all really.

哈里斯，顾客：我丈夫喜欢白切，很不幸，但现在不行。质地不是我们想要的那种，没有面粉可用。我们要的那种口感很浓密、很有嚼劲。可以做很棒的烤面包，让你的味蕾得到满足。感觉特别棒，口感特别好。

So, this is just...and it's sort of...it's dense and it's chewy. And it makes wonderful toast, and it just fills you up. It's just good. And it feels good. And it's just nice to eat.

MALCOLM BRABANT: Dawn Harvey is buying flour to make sourdough. How much difference do you think it makes to the bread itself?

马尔科姆：道恩用面粉来做酵母。这对面筋包来说有什么区别吗？

DAWN HARVEY, Customer: So, the way you can work, the feel of it, the way you can work it, and the taste is definitely better than the supermarket.

道恩，顾客：你做的方式、口感都很特别，口味比超市的好。

MALCOLM BRABANT: Baker Steve Oxford is reaping the benefits of the new simplicity.

马尔科姆：史蒂夫是这种新简约风格的受益者。

STEVE OXFORD, Artisan Baker: The grain that's milled at Sturminster is done so in such a way that it's milled in a more gentle, old-fashioned, softer gentler way, on softer milling stones. So, hardly any of the nutrients is lost. And so what you get is a much better flavor, a superior loaf for bakers like me who use a long fermentation process to produce their breads. The mill is no good for very quickly produced bread, modern-day bread, but for a funny old bakery like ours, it's perfect.

史蒂夫，面包师：牛顿磨坊的面粉匠心独运，口感轻柔、古朴。所以营养几乎没有流失，面粉的质感更好，做出来的面包很棒，而且中间发酵的时间很长。磨坊做的面粉对于现代化流水化生产的面包来说不太实用，但对像我们一样的面包师来说却很完美。

MALCOLM BRABANT: The feedback delights artist and museum curator Imogen Bittner, enjoying a third career as a miller.

马尔科姆：这样的反馈让博物馆馆长、艺术家特纳感到开心，他很享受自己作为磨坊主的第3个身份。

IMOGEN BITTNER, Sturminster Newton Mill: It's satisfying because you see the results straight away. It's not just about putting it through the millstones. There's a lot of sort of little techniques. It's the smell. It's the...the hearing how it is. It's just balancing everything to produce the flour. And it's almost like alchemy what comes out at the end.

特纳，磨坊主：结果立竿见影，很让人满意。这不只是因为要用磨石做。还有很多精妙的工艺，味道很特别，声音也很特别。一切都需要达到平衡的状态才能产出好的面粉。最后呈现结果的时候仿佛有魔力一般。

MALCOLM BRABANT: Along with other entrepreneurs, Steve Oxford recognizes that COVID-19 has forced a major reappraisal of values.

马尔科姆：包括史蒂夫在内的很多企业家都表示疫情让人们重新评估价值。

STEVE OXFORD: What this situation has done is raised awareness about things we should be appreciative of, things that can step up, things that do help, things that are so important to the heritage of our country, and the fact that, actually, when the world falls apart, there are men that can speak to men and women that can speak to women, and do business, and get things moving without the need of corporations, without the need of mass production.

史蒂夫：疫情加强了人们对很多事情的认识，比如我们应该感激欣赏什么、可以加速的事情有什么，有帮助的事情是什么、对国家文化遗产重要的事情是什么，我们也明晰了一个事实——当世界分崩离析时，总会有人愿意挺身而出，不需要企业、也不需要大规模生产就能推动一些事情。

MALCOLM BRABANT: Imogen Bittner also sees positives emerging from the lockdown.

马尔科姆：特纳也看到了封锁期间一些正面的事情。

IMOGEN BITTNER: The lesson is, I think we should do that more often with all our foods. I mean, if you buy vegetables by the side of the road, they taste better. It's... we're importing so much. The commercial aspect of it kills the taste, I think. If you can get back to basics, then you get better-quality food.

特纳：我学到的是，对待所有粮食都应该提高这样做的频率。我想说，在路边买的蔬菜可能味道更好。我们进口了太多东西了。商业化的生产破坏了口感。我们应该回归本源，去关注质量好的食物。

MALCOLM BRABANT: Although the experiment suggests the mill has commercial potential, it is a historic landmark, and the sense here is that, once the crisis has subsided, this national treasure will return to semi-retirement. For the PBS NewsHour, I'm Malcolm Brabant in Sturminster Newton.

马尔科姆：虽然实验表明磨坊有商业潜力，是历史性的标志，但一旦危机过去，磨坊这种国家宝藏就又会出于半退休的状态。感谢收听马尔科姆发回的报道。

JUDY WOODRUFF: Such a great story. The only thing we miss when it's baking is the smell of that fresh bread.

朱迪·伍德拉夫：多棒的故事啊。我想烘焙面包时缺的正是新鲜面包的味道。