英国卫报:奈斯派索的咖啡革命是如何被粉碎的(5)（在线收听）

When you ordered capsules, you joined the “Club”, which also meant handing over your contact information.

订购胶囊咖啡机后，你就成为俱乐部的一员，这也意味着给出你的联系信息。

Over time, Nespresso gained a huge database of customers it could market to, as well as a way of recording consumer preferences and buying habits.

久而久之，奈斯派索拥有了一个很大的数据库，里面都是可购买其产品的消费者，还掌握了一种记录消费者偏好和购买习惯的方法。

For customers, the club created the sense that you were part of a sophisticated worldwide cabal of corporate espresso lovers.

对于顾客来说，这家俱乐部给人的感觉是，你是一个精致的全球浓缩咖啡爱好者集团的一部分。

When I first encountered Nespresso, as a student, around 2006, I remember feeling like I was finally part of the global elite everyone kept complaining about.

大约在2006年，作为学生的我第一次接触了奈斯派索胶囊咖啡。我记得我感觉自己终于成为了人人都在抱怨的全球精英中的一员。

“What Nespresso have done is create a lot of benign bullshit around coffee,” said Rory Sutherland. “But people enjoy the bullshit.”

“胶囊咖啡机带来的就是很多关于咖啡的善意的胡扯，”罗里·萨瑟兰说。“但人们喜欢胡扯。”

At the University of Oxford, Prof Charles Spence, head of the Crossmodal Research Lab, has studied how much your experience of coffee is shaped by the way it is presented.

在牛津大学，跨模态研究实验室主任查尔斯·斯宾塞教授研究了咖啡的呈现方式对你的咖啡体验有多大影响。

In Nespresso adverts, he observed, coffee is almost always displayed in a transparent glass, with a crown of light crema on top of the drink.

据他观察，在雀巢的广告中，咖啡总是装在一个透明的杯子里，上面有一层画龙点睛的淡淡的克丽玛泡沫。

“It starts to look almost like a pint of Guinness,” Spence said.

斯宾塞说，“它开始看起来就好像是一品脱的吉尼斯黑啤。”

“Coffee doesn’t come with the visual variation you get in tea or wine –

“咖啡不会呈现茶或者酒那样的视觉变化，

it’s all pretty much the same colour, so perhaps you have to show it with the crema.”

它基本上都是同一个颜色，所以或许你只能在克丽玛泡沫上面展示它的不同之处。”

(The crema is key to the mythology of espresso. Legend has it that the Italian company Gaggia coined the term in the 30s,

（克丽玛泡沫是浓缩咖啡神话的关键。据说，意大利公司加吉亚在30年代创造了这个词，

rebranding something customers had previously thought of as “scum” on the top of their drink as “caffe creme”, a coffee so fine it made its own froth.)

将顾客之前认为咖啡上面是“浮渣”的东西重新命名为“咖啡克丽玛”，这种咖啡非常好，可以自己产生泡沫。)

For the people who sell it, the way coffee looks has long been as important as how it tastes.

对于销售咖啡的人来说，长久以来，咖啡的外观和口味同样重要。

Until the late 19th century, beans were prized for their size, colour and symmetry.

直到19世纪晚期，人们还因咖啡豆的大小、颜色和对称性来定价。

Nespresso applied a similar approach to its capsules: they started rather plain, in greys and golds, but evolved into a full spectrum.

奈斯派索对其胶囊咖啡产品也采用了类似的方法：开始的时候非常普通，只有灰色和金色的，但逐渐发展成为全系列的。

Red means decaffeinated, with darker purples and greys for the stronger, more intense flavours.

红色代表无咖啡因，深紫色和灰色代表更强烈、更强烈的口味。

“You are trying to give people visual clues about the origins of the product,” said Spence.

斯宾塞说，“你要试图给人们呈现关于产品起源的视觉线索。

“People prefer the taste of things when they think they have made a choice about it.”

人们在感觉到自己做了一个选择后，会更喜欢这个东西的味道。

The Nespresso system made every customer feel like a connoisseur:

奈斯派索胶囊咖啡系统让每位顾客都感觉自己是内行：

you had to make a choice every time you put a capsule in the machine, even if it was just between black or purple.

每次往机器中放胶囊时，你都得做出一个选择，即使仅仅是在黑色和紫色之间做选择。