英国卫报:奈斯派索的咖啡革命是如何被粉碎的(14)（在线收听）

“In many ways, the Nespresso pod is the microwave meal of coffee,” said James Hoffman.

詹姆斯·霍夫曼表示，“在许多方面，奈斯派索胶囊咖啡都是微波咖啡餐。”

“Nespresso is expensive for what it is.

奈斯派索胶囊咖啡就其本身而言是很贵的。

It’s fine in terms of its quality, but with a little bit of effort you could make something far better at home.”

它的质量还不错，但只要稍加费力，你在家里就能做出更好的咖啡。”

But as Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, who runs an independent coffee shop in Bath, told me,

马克斯韦尔·科隆纳-达什伍德在巴斯开了一家独立咖啡店，他告诉我，

Nespresso was never meant to rival true specialty coffee.

奈斯派索胶囊咖啡从未打算与真正的特色咖啡相匹敌。

“They don’t want it to taste like that. They want it to have mass appeal.”

“他们不想做出那种口味。他们希望它可以吸引大众。”

“I love small-batch, third-wave coffee, too,” Ranitzsch said, admiring his silos.

“我也爱喝小批量的，第三次咖啡运动倡导的高质量咖啡。”对咖啡胶囊称赞有加的拉尼茨施说道。

“The guys with tattoos and beards stirring their beans in Brooklyn. It is artisanal.

“布鲁克林的纹身和大胡子男人在搅拌他们的豆子。它是手工制作的。

But here we want consistency.” After the tour of Nespresso’s facilities, Ranitzsch and I sat in the “coffee campus”.

但是，在这里我们想要的是一致性。”在参观完奈斯派索的设施后，拉尼茨施和我在“咖啡园区”歇脚。

Sitting at a tasting table, we sniffed, slurped and spat out a variety of different brews.

我们坐在品酒桌旁，闻着，咂着，吐着各种不同的啤酒。

He suggested aromas of flowers, fruit, earth and caramel and grew slightly wistful.

他提到了花香、水果、泥土和焦糖的味道，有点伤感。

“Coffee comes with history and memories,” he said.

“咖啡伴随着历史和记忆，”他说。

“Growing up, you didn’t like it, but you wanted to be like the adults. It has something to do with belonging.”

“长大后，你不喜欢它，但你想像成年人一样。它与归属有关。”

Favre, too, sometimes turns poetic when he talks about coffee.

法弗尔在谈到咖啡时，有时也会变得富有诗意。

He told me that his invention didn’t make him rich, but that didn’t bother him.

他告诉我，他的发明没能让他变得富有，但是这并没有让他感到烦恼。

“I don’t mind about the money,” he said.

他说：“我不在意金钱。”

“I see Nespresso like a daughter who is always telling me: look at what you can do and look at what you did.

“我将奈斯派索视作自己的女儿，她总是告诉我：看看你能做什么，看看你做了什么。

I am very proud of her. She is mine, she is in my heart, she is always in my mind.”

我为她感到骄傲。她是我的，她在我心里，她永远在我心里。”

In the summer of 2020, buffeted by Covid-19, Nespresso trundles on.

2020年夏天，在新型冠状病毒的冲击下，奈斯派索咖啡机缓慢地继续前进。

In a recent email, a spokesperson reported “mid single-digit growth,”

在最近的一封电子邮件中，一位发言人报告了“中等个位数的增长，”

and the company has announced it will be expanding the Romont facility, but the mood is different.

该公司已经宣布将扩大在罗蒙的工厂，但气氛有所不同。

A new CEO, Guillaume Le Cunff, another long-term employee,

新任首席执行官纪尧姆·勒坎夫是另一位长期雇员，

who had previously worked on many of the company’s sustainability initiatives, took over earlier this year.

他之前曾参与过公司的许多可持续发展项目，今年早些时候出任首席执行官。

In late May, a new ad appeared on Nespresso’s YouTube page.

五月底，一个新的广告出现在奈斯派索的油管页面上。

Over shots of farmers and waterfalls and thoughtful-looking agronomists,

在展示着农民、瀑布和沉思的农学家的镜头中，

a female voice talks about ecosystems, farmers and recyclable aluminium.

一个女性的声音在谈论生态系统、农民和可回收铝。

“Now, more than ever, doing the right thing matters,” she says.

她说，“现在，做对的事情比以往任何时候都重要。”

“Those who know most about exceptional coffee, know exceptional coffee comes from care.” George Clooney is nowhere to be seen.

“那些最了解优质咖啡的人，知道优质咖啡来自于关怀。”广告里没有了乔治·克鲁尼的身影。