新闻周刊:牛仔裤的真实成本(6)（在线收听）

Silla led me to the lab to see the system in action. In the laser room, in 10 or 11 seconds, the jeans were as faded and destroyed as my old shrink-to-fit 501s after three years of hard living.

西拉带我去了实验室，看看这个系统是如何运作的。在激光室里，在10或11秒内，牛仔裤被褪色、磨损，就像我的旧的经过三年不停穿着的收缩到合适尺寸的501牛仔裤一样。

Next, a dryer-like tumbler uses ozone to fade jeans. Using stratospheric ozone, or "good ozone," in finishing is "like putting a garment in the sun for a month, except we can do it in 20 minutes," Silla explained, and with a fraction of the energy or water the old process required.

接下来，一个干式滚筒利用臭氧使牛仔裤褪色。新罗解释说，使用平流层臭氧，或称“良好臭氧”，在整理过程中，“就像把一件衣服在太阳下晒一个月，只不过我们可以在20分钟内完成，” 只需消耗旧工艺所需能量或水的一小部分。

Finally, we visited the washroom, where the e-Flow machine washes jeans among microscopic bubbles. "Nanobubbles do the softening, tinting and stonewash without the stones, all at once," Silla said. There is no water treatment afterward and the water that is used can be recycled for 30 days. "We are not at zero water stage yet," he said. "But we are getting there."

最后，我们参观了洗手间，那里的e-Flow洗衣机在微小的气泡中清洗牛仔裤。“纳米气泡在没有石头的情况下进行软化、着色和石磨，”新罗说。之后没有水处理，使用的水可以循环30天。“我们还没有达到零水位。”他说。“但我们正在接近目标。”

While in Ho Chi Minh City, I toured a Jeanologia-equipped washhouse to see the process on a commercial scale. Jeanologia, my host told me, had "totally transformed production."

在胡志明市的时候，我参观了一个配备了牛仔裤的洗衣房，以便在商业规模上看到这一过程。我的主人告诉我，Jeanologia“彻底改变了生产”。

The factory processed about half of what the big Chinese factories churn out—all without the frenetic grabbing and flinging of garments, screeching sanders, sweltering heat or stress.

这家工厂加工了中国大型工厂大约一半的产品|——所有这些都没有疯狂地抓着和甩着衣服，没有刺耳的摩擦声，没有酷热或压力。

When I asked about job loss, my guide conceded that "eventually everything will be robotic." But instead of waves of layoffs, this factory retrains workers to use "more sophisticated machinery, or to manage," he said. And back in Valencia, after a four-month course to teach workers how to run the laser distressing machines, newly minted "laser design experts" are dispatched throughout the world.

当我问及失业问题时，我的向导承认，“最终一切都会变得机械化。”但他说，这家工厂没有进行大规模裁员，而是对工人进行再培训，让他们使用“更复杂的机器，或者进行管理”。回到巴伦西亚后，在为期四个月的课程中，工人们学习如何操作激光脱模机，新一代的“激光设计专家”被派往世界各地。

Even with all these pluses, Jeanologia has had a tough time breaking into the jeans finishing market. What would really change the game, would be to win over the majors: Gap, H&M, Zara, Uniqlo, PVH, VF Corp and Levi's.

尽管有这些优势，Jeanologia还是很难打入牛仔裤精加工市场。真正改变比赛的，将是赢过牛仔裤巨头；Gap, H&M, Zara，优衣库，PVH, VF Corp和Levi's。

"If we transform the way these people produce," he said, "that would be immense."

“如果我们改变这些生产商的生产方式，”他说，“那将是巨大的。”