英国卫报:此时蜜糖,彼时砒霜(4)(在线收听) |
Mintz has argued that a primary reason sugar has escaped social disapproval is that, whatever conspicuous behavioural changes may occur when infants consume sugar, 明茨认为,糖没有受到社会反对的一个主要原因是,无论婴儿摄入糖后可能会发生什么明显的行为变化, it did not cause the kind of "flushing, staggering, dizziness, euphoria, changes in the pitch of the voice, slurring of speech, 它都不会导致“脸红、蹒跚、头晕、兴奋、音调变化、口齿不清、 visibly intensified physical activity or any of the other cues associated with the ingestion" of other drugs. 明显强化的身体活动或任何其他与摄入其他药物有关的迹象。 Sugar appears to cause pleasure with a price that is difficult to discern immediately and paid in full only years or decades later. 糖似乎能带来愉悦感,但其代价很难立即看出,而且要等到几年或几十年后才能完全付出。 With no visible, directly noticeable consequences, as Mintz says, questions of "long-term nutritive or medical consequences went unasked and unanswered". 正如明茨所说,由于没有明显的、直接明显的后果,关于“长期营养或医疗后果”的问题没有得到解答。 Most of us today will never know if we suffer even subtle withdrawal symptoms from sugar, because we'll never go long enough without it to find out. 今天,我们中的大多数人永远都不会知道我们是否遭受了对糖的轻微戒断症状,因为我们永远不会长时间不吃糖来发现这一点。 Sugar historians consider the drug comparison to be fitting in part because sugar is one of a handful of "drug foods", to use Mintz's term, that came out of the tropics, 糖历史学家认为用糖来比作药物是合适的,部分原因是(用明茨的话来说)糖是少数几种产自热带的“药物食品”之一, and on which European empires were built from the 16th century onward – the others being tea, coffee, chocolate, rum and tobacco. 从16世纪开始,欧洲帝国就在此基础上建立起来,另外还有茶、咖啡、巧克力、朗姆酒和烟草。 Its history is intimately linked to that of these other drugs. Rum is distilled, of course, from sugar cane. 糖的历史与其他药物的历史密切相关。朗姆酒就是用甘蔗蒸馏而成的。 In the 17th century, once sugar was added as a sweetener to tea, coffee and chocolate, and prices allowed it, the consumption of these substances in Europe exploded. 在17世纪,一旦糖被作为甜味剂添加到茶、咖啡和巧克力中,并且价格允许,这些物质的消费在欧洲就会暴增。 Sugar was used to sweeten spirits and wine in Europe as early as the 14th century; even cannabis preparations in India and opium-based wines and syrups contained sugar. 早在14世纪的欧洲,糖就被用来给烈酒和葡萄酒添加甜味。甚至印度的大麻制剂和以鸦片为原料的葡萄酒和糖浆中也含有糖。 As for tobacco, sugar was, and still is, a critical ingredient in the American blended-tobacco cigarette, the first of which was Camel. 至于烟草,糖过去是,现在仍然是美国混合烟草香烟的关键成分,最早的混合烟草是骆驼香烟。 It's this "marriage of tobacco and sugar", as a sugar-industry report described it in 1950, that makes for the "mild" experience of smoking cigarettes as compared with cigars and, 这就是“烟草和糖的联姻”,正如1950年一份糖业报告中描述的那样,与雪茄相比,它能使吸烟的体验更加的“温和”, perhaps more important, makes it possible for most of us to inhale cigarette smoke and draw it deep into our lungs. 也许更重要的是,它使得我们大多数人有可能吸入香烟烟雾并将它深深地吸进肺里。 |
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