纪录片《中国美食之旅》 第6期:北京篇(5)（在线收听）

For both Ching and I,this trip is deeply personal.

对于我俩来说，这个旅行是纯粹的个人行为

We want to understand more about our relationship with our homeland.

我们想探寻我们和故土的羁绊之情

Even though I was raised in America, I've been connected to China

即使我在美国长大，我也在很小的时候

through food from a very early age.

通过食物和中国紧密相连

My father passed away when I was eight months old

我八个月大的时候父亲过世

and my mother brought me up in Chicago's Chinatown.

母亲在芝加哥的唐人街抚养我长大

I grew up in a Chinese bubble cos I didn't see any other people

我在满是华人的氛围中成长

except Chinese people.

除了中国人没见过其他人

We only ate Chinese food,we went to see Chinese movies

我们只吃中国菜看华语电影

and we only spoke Chinese.

我们只说汉语

Cantonese, that is.

也就是广东话

The era I grew up in,

我成长在一个很艰难的时代里

it was very difficult to be a minority in America.

作为美国的少数族群

You were either made fun of or you didn't exist

我们经常被嘲笑或被无视

and China was like a dream.

中国就就像遥远的梦

Like a fantasy.

梦幻之境

That was the life raft I clung to,to be proud of my identity.

那是紧握的希望，我为我的华人身份而自豪

When I finally made it to the homeland in 1983,

1983年我回到故土

it was not the China I imagined.

眼前已不是我想象中的中国

It was still emerging from the trauma of the Cultural Revolution

它仍旧带着上世纪六七十年代

of the 1960s and '70s.

文革动荡造成的创伤

I was pretty appalled.

当时我就震惊了

It was as if China was almost 50 years behind.

中国好像倒退了50年

I just couldn't believe it.

我不敢相信

In Beijing, traditional food culture was nearly wiped out

在北京，毛主席为彻底清除

as a result of Chairman Mao's communist ideals

走资派和右倾错误危害国家

to rid the country of bourgeois influence.

中国传统的饮食文化几乎绝迹

Red Guards shut down restaurants and burnt recipe books.

饭店只好关门大吉

A lot of chefs left China, or else they kept their art secret.

大量厨师离开中国，或私下保留厨艺

In other words, they didn't practise it any more in public.

换句话说，他们就不在公共场合做菜了

But, you know, once you cook,you can never forget how to cook.

但一旦学会做菜，就永远不会忘记这门手艺

And when the reforms came,

当改革来临时

all these people came out of their kitchens

这些人走出厨房

and started cooking again.

又开始烹饪

To see how traditional cooking is being kept alive,

为了解传统烹饪怎样一直持续下去

Ching and I are headed to a backstreet restaurant

瀞亿和我被引到一家胡同里的

in one of the hutong districts,old neighbourhoods

背街餐馆

that have survived the city's often brutal modernisation.

残酷的现代化中幸存下来的老居民区

This looks...quite dodgy. Are you sure it's here?

看起来…十分隐蔽，你确定是这里吗

We're meeting a chef who returned

我们要去见一位改革开放后

to the capital after the reforms.

回到首都的厨师

He's been responsible for preserving what, I think,

我想他负责维护着的

is Beijing's greatest culinary tradition, Peking duck.

就是北京最经典的烹饪传统，北京烤鸭

We're meeting a chef who returned

我们要去见一位改革开放后

to the capital after the reforms.

回到首都的厨师

He's been responsible for preserving what, I think,

我想他负责维护着的

is Beijing's greatest culinary tradition, Peking duck.

就是北京最经典的烹饪传统，北京烤鸭

Ching, I think in my lifetime I've cooked, perhaps, 10,000 ducks.

瀞亿，我想在我一生中也许已经烹饪了一万只烤鸭

10,000! Yes. I'd like to see how they make them, traditionally.

一万！是的，我想看看烤鸭的传统做法

In here? Yes.

在这里？是的

Ni hao. Ni hao. Ni hao.

你好，你好，你好

'Chef Li Chin has turned his family home of 50 years

张利群厨师和他的女儿经营着

'into this restaurant,which he runs with his daughter.

由50年的自家房舍改建而成的餐馆

'Peking duck is to the Chinese what champagne is to France,

北京烤鸭之于中国正如香槟之于法国

'and Beijing is its birthplace.

北京正是其发祥地

'It dates back to the Yuan Dynasty of the 13th century

其历史可以追溯到13世纪的元代

'when it was reserved exclusively for the Emperor's table.'

当时它是皇帝用膳的贡品

Well, the secret of Peking duck is it has to be crispy skin,

北京烤鸭的秘密是表皮酥脆

no fat and moist meat.

不含油脂，鸭肉温润

And if you don't have that,it's not Peking duck.

如果没有这些，那就不能叫北京烤鸭

Chef Li Chin has studied the 700-year-old techniques

利群师傅已经学习了这门七百年之久的

of the Imperial Court kitchens.

宫廷厨艺