英国卫报：垃圾食品盛行 我们如何吃得更健康?(8)（在线收听）

The absence of adequate food policy in England reflects a wider culture in which most of the population has been disconnected from food production for a very long time.

英格兰缺乏适当的食品政策，反映了一种更广泛的文化，这种文化认为，大多数人长期以来与食品生产没有联系。

There is a maddeningly persistent view in the UK that caring about healthy food is snobbish or middle-class.

在英国，有一种令人抓狂的顽固观点，即关心食品健康的人是势利眼或中产阶级。

(Witness the rage that greeted Jamie Oliver when he dared to try to improve the quality of school meals in 2005.)

(2005年，当杰米-奥利弗（Jamie Oliver）敢于尝试改善学校膳食的质量时，人们对他充满了愤怒）。

England is far from the only country where responsibility for food policy is spread across multiple departments.

英国也不是唯一一个将食品政策的责任分散在多个部门的国家。

In South Africa, for example, food policy is splintered across 15 different departments.

例如，在南非，食品政策被分散在15个不同的部门。

But one of the big differences is that South Africa also has a Department of Cooperative Governance, whose role is to coordinate food polices across all the departments at a local and national level.

但其中一个很大的区别是，南非还有一个合作治理部门，其作用是在地方和国家层面协调所有部门的食品政策。

In 2019, South Africa was ranked as the most effective government in the world for its commitment to tackling hunger and undernutrition by the Hunger and Nutrition Commitment Index.

2019年，饥饿和营养承诺指数将南非评为世界上解决饥饿和营养不足问题的最有成效的政府。

Under South African policy, ensuring adequate food for the population is seen as such an urgent priority that nutrition has its own separate budget line.

根据南非的政策，确保人口有足够的食物被视为一个紧迫的优先事项，以至于营养有自己独立的预算项目。

Compare and contrast this with the UK, where hunger is still not generally recognised as an issue.

这与英国形成了鲜明的对比，在这里，饥饿还没有被普遍当做一个问题。

In England, there is not a single department assigned lead responsibility for hunger, despite the fact that, in 2018, the Food and Agriculture Organisation found that there were more than 2.2 million people in the UK in a state of food insecurity.

在英格兰，没有一个部门对饥饿问题负责，尽管在2018年，粮食和农业组织发现，英国有超过220万人处于粮食不安全状态。

(The 2021 figures are undoubtedly higher).

(2021年的数字无疑更高）。

Last winter, for the first time in 70 years, Unicef stepped in to feed hungry children in the UK.

去年冬天，Unicef70年来首次介入，为英国饥饿的儿童提供食物。

Yet Parsons reported that the government continues to see hunger as an overseas issue.

然而，帕森斯报告说，政府依然认为饥饿只是国外才有的问题。

If England has fragmented food policies, it is partly because this is a country that does not recognise how much food matters.

如果说英格兰的食品政策支离破碎，部分原因是这个国家没有认识到食品有多重要。

In modern western societies with an apparently abundant food supply, treating food as trivial is a common mindset, as historian Paul Freedman shows in his short new polemic Why Food Matters.

正如历史学家保罗-弗里德曼在其简短的新论战《为什么食物很重要》中所展示的那样，在现代西方社会中，由于食物供应非常充足，人们普遍认为食物无关紧要。

Effective food policies have a better chance of taking root in countries with long-established cultures of cooking, where it is normal for families to gather around a table every day.

有效的食品政策在具有悠久的烹饪文化的国家更容易扎根，在那里，家人每天围在桌子上吃饭是正常的。

One example is Brazil, where school canteens are obliged to source 30% of their ingredients from local family farms.

比如巴西，那里的学校食堂有义务从当地家庭农场采购30%的食材。

In 2014, Brazil totally rewrote the script on nutrition policy when the department of health issued new food-based nutrition guidelines urging Brazilians to avoid ultra-processed food and to eat more freshly produced food.

2014年，巴西完全改写了营养政策的法律，当时卫生部发布了新的以食物为基础的营养指南，敦促巴西人尽量避免使用超加工食物，多吃新鲜的食物。

At the time, these guidelines were unlike any other nutrition policy in the world, although similar policies have since been adopted by other countries including Ecuador, Peru and Canada.

在当时，这些指导方针与世界上任何其他营养政策都不同，尽管后来其他国家包括厄瓜多尔、秘鲁和加拿大也采取了类似的政策。

When I asked Geoffrey Cannon, a British researcher who helped design the Brazilian nutrition guidelines, why Brazilian food policy is so much more ambitious than that in England, he pointed to the prevailing food culture.

当我问帮助设计巴西营养指南的英国研究员杰弗里-坎农（Geoffrey Cannon），为什么巴西的食品政策比英国的要雄心勃勃得多时，他指出原因是当地主流的饮食文化。

In the Catholic tradition, Brazil is still largely family-based and therefore family meals are normal.

在天主教传统中，巴西在很大程度上仍然以家庭为基础，因此家庭聚餐非常常见。

Even when people move away from home to the cities, they can still buy cheap home-style food at per quilo restaurants selling unpretentious food priced by weight.

即使人们远离家乡来到城市，他们仍然可以在per quilo餐馆买到便宜的家庭式食物，餐馆按重量计价，售卖朴实无华的家常食物。