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Is there a distinctive1 Kenyan "look"? Perhaps not yet. A country-wide competition held six years ago to come up with a Kenyan "national dress" failed to take off. But in Kenya's burgeoning2 fashion industry, designers are increasingly drawing upon their heritage to create clothing that fuses Kenyan and western styles. Some hold out hope that there can yet be a Kenyan "national dress."
The Nigerians have their buba dress, and the Ugandans, their gomesi. But Kenyan designers like Patricia Mbela bemoan3 the lack of a distinctive outfit4 in this conservatively-dressed country.
"You have to wear a tie, a nice skirt suit when you go to work. If you go with a tie-dye shirt to the office, you are most likely to get your boss call you in and telling you, 'That is not something you wear to the office unless it is a dress-down Friday.' It is sad - it does not make sense," she said.
Mbela was one of nine designers selected to create a Kenyan "national dress" in a competition six years ago, an idea that did not catch on.
In a country with more than 40 ethnic5 groups, most having a distinctive dress of their own, designers say it is a challenge to come up with an outfit that everyone will see themselves in.
Olivia Ambani, design and marketing6 manager with the Kenyan fashion house KikoRomeo, says she thinks a national dress is possible with a bit of flexibility7. "I think it will take people being more open to cohesion8 and accepting that, if it is slightly more Maasai or more Kikuyu or more Luo or more coastal9, it is okay because it still is part of the country and it will still represent us," she said.
Kenya does have its distinctive fabrics11, most notably12 the checkered13 or striped shukas worn by the Maasai, the lessos, or khangas, which originated on the coast, and the kikoy.
But designer Wambui Njogu says these were typically used as shawls or wraps rather than as material to make into garments.
"We did not have fabric10 traditionally in Kenya, so everything was based in skins and leathers. Our skills are in things like beadwork, the leather handling, and the embellishment, but the actual garment and the stitching culture was never there. All you needed was something to wrap around you to keep the cold out, which is why we had the shuka -- the cloth was always on top of the leather loincloth," she said.
Njogu says a national dress would probably consist of a western-style garment that would be embellished14 with beadwork, coils and other symbols of Kenyan cultures.
She follows this type of trend in her clothing line, Moo Cow. One of her outfits15 incorporates a long leather apron16 similar to that worn by the Turkana people of northern Kenya.
For its part, KikoRomeo's designs draw upon cultures from all over Africa.
Design and marketing manager Olivia Ambani said "For instance, one of the collections that we have is Afro-punk collection. There is a lot of imagery on it, embellishment that is taken from scarification, which is something that is quite big in the continent. We give it the punk style, which is obviously something that is very British and taken from that era."
Ambani says more than 20 designers have come up with their own labels, which are beginning to be recognized locally and internationally, and that more and more designers are entering the industry.
Patricia Mbela also mixes Kenyan and western influences in her designs.
She says she has not given up on the goal of having a distinctive Kenyan national dress..
And to boost the Kenyan fashion industry, designer Wambui Njogu urges female politicians and other women frequently in the public eye to purchase and wear Kenyan-made clothing.
1 distinctive | |
adj.特别的,有特色的,与众不同的 | |
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2 burgeoning | |
adj.迅速成长的,迅速发展的v.发芽,抽枝( burgeon的现在分词 );迅速发展;发(芽),抽(枝) | |
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3 bemoan | |
v.悲叹,哀泣,痛哭;惋惜,不满于 | |
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4 outfit | |
n.(为特殊用途的)全套装备,全套服装 | |
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5 ethnic | |
adj.人种的,种族的,异教徒的 | |
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6 marketing | |
n.行销,在市场的买卖,买东西 | |
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7 flexibility | |
n.柔韧性,弹性,(光的)折射性,灵活性 | |
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8 cohesion | |
n.团结,凝结力 | |
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9 coastal | |
adj.海岸的,沿海的,沿岸的 | |
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10 fabric | |
n.织物,织品,布;构造,结构,组织 | |
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11 fabrics | |
织物( fabric的名词复数 ); 布; 构造; (建筑物的)结构(如墙、地面、屋顶):质地 | |
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12 notably | |
adv.值得注意地,显著地,尤其地,特别地 | |
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13 checkered | |
adj.有方格图案的 | |
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14 embellished | |
v.美化( embellish的过去式和过去分词 );装饰;修饰;润色 | |
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15 outfits | |
n.全套装备( outfit的名词复数 );一套服装;集体;组织v.装备,配置设备,供给服装( outfit的第三人称单数 ) | |
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16 apron | |
n.围裙;工作裙 | |
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