衬衣成了女人的华丽时装

 The classic masculine button-down has this season been given a feminine twist. Spring/summer catwalks introduced shirting with new architectural proportions: strict peplums or sculptural, cut-out details tied up with ribbons. “Mensy” shirts were chopped into a severe crop and decorated with asymmetrical² ruffles³.

这个春夏时装季，经典款领扣式男衬衣被设计师赋予了女性风情。各个春夏季时装秀场推出了呈现全新比例结构关系的衬衣：腰部饰裙以及系着丝带的雕花图案比比皆是。男款衬衣被翻改成用非对称皱褶装点的女性风格装束。

What was once just a building block of a woman’s wardrobe has been remade as the focal point. “The great thing about shirting is that it goes with jeans, and jeans are probably the most modern, functional⁴ garment that ever existed,” says designer Jonathan Anderson whose six-piece JW Anderson x Net-a-Porter capsule launched last month. 

昔日女性装束的寻常角色如今摇身一变，成为时尚界众目睽睽的焦点。“衬衣的妙用就是它能随意搭配各种牛仔装，而牛仔装或许是时装界有史以来最时髦、功能最为多样的装束。”设计师乔纳森?安德森(Jonathan Anderson)这样说道。不久前，他与Net-a-Porter合作推出了JW Anderson六件单品“混搭装”(capsule)。 

衬衣成了女人的华丽时装

The collection elevates shirting to new levels: pieces include an off-the-shoulder, loose top with a sweetheart neckline and superfine spaghetti straps⁵, and a one-shouldered pinstripe bustier with a sculpted⁶ peplum. For the designer, taking a timeless piece as a basis for a directional collection makes the pieces easily wearable. “I wanted to propose items customers would be able to combine with their actual wardrobe,” says Anderson. 

该系列把衬衣提升至全新的高度：单件装中就包括了鸡心形领口与精制细吊带的宽松型露肩衬衫，配有雕花款腰部饰裙、一头露香肩的细条纹式束身胸衣。在设计师安德森看来：把适合各时尚季穿的衬衫作为设计引领风尚系列的基础，各单品衬衣于是顺理成章成了百搭装。“我希望所推出的衬衣是消费者心悦诚服的百搭装。”安德森说。

Elsewhere this spring, there are loosely-tailored tie-waisted versions at Joseph and balloon-sleeved styles at Céline. For Sarah Rutson, vice-president for global buying at Net-a-Porter, shirting’s renaissance⁷ is no surprise. It’s the “backbone of a woman’s wardrobe”, she says. The site’s shirting category offers styles from 106 designers, and that’s only likely to increase, with shirts a feature on the AW16 catwalks, seen at, among others, Preen⁸ by Thornton Bregazzi and 1205.

Joseph与Céline等其它品牌在这个春夏时装季分别推出了腰部系结式宽松衬衣与肥袖款衬衣。Net-a-Porter全球采购部副总裁莎拉?罗森(Sarah Rutson)说，衬衣的“东山再起”完全在预料之中。衬衣是“女妆之定海神针”，她说。Net-a-Porter网店上的衬衣来自106位设计师，而且，随着衬衣成为2016秋冬季时装秀（Preen by Thornton Bregazzi与1205等众多品牌就是明证）的一道亮丽风景线，Net-a-Porter上网销售的衬衣品牌只会越来越多。

This month meanwhile sees the launch of MatchesFashion.com’s shirting collaboration⁹ with Joseph Altuzarra: an exclusive five-piece collection born out of the fact that the designer’s shirt-dresses were forever selling out on the site.

与此同时， MatchesFashion.com将推出与设计师约瑟夫?奥图扎拉(Joseph Al?tu?zarra)合推的衬衣：这个限量版五件套系列的横空出世，源于后者设计的礼服衬衣在MatchesFashion.com网店总是供不应求。

This new focus on the staple¹⁰ is great news for shirting brands too. When Central Saint Martins graduates Matthew Harding and Levi Palmer founded their label Palmer Harding in 2012, they homed in on shirts as they felt it was good to have a niche¹¹. “Rather than trying to build everything at once, specialising in one garment allowed us space for constant refinement,” says Harding. 

消费者关注销路稳定的产品，对于各大品牌而言同样是重大利好。毕业于中央圣马丁艺术学院(Central Saint Martins)的马修?哈丁(Matthew Harding)与莱维?帕尔默(Levi Palmer)于2012年合创Palmer Harding品牌时，他们把目标投向了衬衣，因为他们认为创建这个细分行业前景广阔。“我们不想一下子眉毛胡子一把抓，而是专注于衬衣，此举能让我们不断精益求精。”

Palmer has a degree in pattern-cutting from Dallas University — and the duo’s technical skills have led to the nickname “the shirt boys”. Palmer Harding has a list of rules for its shirting: cotton only; collars must have two types of interfacing¹²; and each seam has 18 stitches per inch, with most constructed with French seams, for softness. (Many of their pieces are created via draping fabric¹³ on the model, with the shirting elements added in afterwards.)

帕尔默曾获得达拉斯大学(Dallas University)的裁剪专业学位—这对黄金组合的出色设计技能使其获得了“衬衣男神”的绰号。Palmer Harding的衬衣有一整套规则：只采用纯棉面料，衣领必使用两种衬布，每个接缝采用每英寸18针，而且多数接缝采用法式线缝法，以期增加柔软度。（很多单件衬衣设计时，先在模特身上试面料，而后再添加各个衬衣组件。）

Their four annual collections include a variety of shirting interpretations¹⁴, each referred to by a model number. Such has been the popularity of number 96 (introduced in 2013, pictured below), they have struggled to keep up with orders, and there is often a long waiting list for the shirt. Its appeal is obvious: crafted from five metres of fine German cotton, the top is a classic button-down with long sleeves and big cuffs¹⁵, which gives way to a vast, asymmetric¹ maxi length. “It’s a very dramatic piece and it creates a massive silhouette,” says Harding. “But at the same time, it’s just a cotton shirt.”

他们每年推出四个时装系列，其中就有众多衬衣款式，每一款都由模特号代表。风靡一时的96号衬衣就是如此。该款衬衣的订单多得让他们力不从心，总是供不应求。其魅力显而易见：它由5米德国上乘棉布料手工打造而成，这款长袖子与大袖口的经典款领扣式衬衣最终呈现的是非对称的超长款式。“这款夸张做作的衬衣穿在身上，气势逼人。”哈丁说。“但与此同时，这只是一款棉衬衣。” 

The button-down has come a long way from its humble¹⁶ origins. “In the past, the gentleman’s shirt was relegated¹⁷ to being worn as an undergarment. Unless you were fighting a duel¹⁸, it really wasn’t on display,” says Kristina Rate, who founded her London-based Belle¹⁹ Epoque label in 2013. Her first collection was comprised entirely²⁰ of white shirts inspired by the actress Lauren Bacall. “Today, it’s a powerful fashion staple — it’s the most-worn piece of clothing by both sexes.” 

领扣式衬衣最初是名不见经传的角色，历经漫长岁月，方有今日之地位。“过去，男士衬衣只是穿作贴身内衣。除非参加决斗，否则它难露真身。” 克里斯蒂娜?凯特(Kristina Rate)说，她于2013年在伦敦创办自己的品牌Belle Epoque。她推出的第一个时装系列全是白衬衣，其设计灵感来自于影星劳伦?巴考尔(Lauren Bacall)。“如今，这是一款畅销装——它是男女拥趸最喜欢的单品。”

Whereas the classic white shirt will always sell, this season is all about the statement. “We’ve always loved a woman in a white shirt,” says Tome’s Ramon Martin from the brand’s 25th Street studio in NoMad²¹, a tiny New York neighbourhood nestled between Chelsea and Flatiron. The studio is a big, white, open space with all-day sunlight and sky views, where everything from the designing to pattern-cutting and fittings takes place. “It’s an inspiring space to be in,” says co-founder Ryan Lobo.

尽管经典款白衬衣一直畅销，但这个时装季，却是华丽高调的女款衬衣独领风骚。“我们一直对身穿白衬衣的女性情有独钟。”Tome设计师拉蒙?马丁(Ramon Martin)在位于NoMad第25街的工作室如是说道，NoMad是位于纽约切尔西(Chelsea)与熨斗区(Flatiron)之间的一处微型社区。工作室是一处面积巨大的白色开放式空间，全天阳光通透，蓝天白云一览无遗，从设计、裁剪到拼接的所有工作都在里面完成。“身处其中，灵感源源不绝。”该工作室共同创始人瑞恩?洛博(Ryan Lobo)说。 

Alongside its ready-to-wear collections which always includes shirts, in 2014 Tome launched a collaboration with the charity Freedom for All. The White Shirt Project is a twice-yearly capsule of around three shirts, with profits going to the charity’s efforts to eradicate²² slavery and human trafficking. “We see the white shirt as a metaphor²³ for a clean slate,” says Lobo of the collaboration.

在推出成衣系列（总有衬衣）的同时，Tome2014年还与慈善组织Freedom for All合推了一个时装系列，The White Shirt Project每年两次推出混搭款衬衣，每次大约推出三件衬衣，所得利润捐于Freedom for All，根除奴隶制与贩卖人口的慈善事业。“我们认为白衬衣寓意个人历史一清二白。”洛博说。

Women are at the forefront of the Tome brand: whether it’s the female artist they take inspiration from each season (past choices have included Georgia O’Keeffe and Louise Bourgeois), the women in their six-strong atelier, or their clients. They are mindful of ensuring their collection has a democratic offering, and take on board feedback about everything from design to price points. “We ask them, ‘Would you wear this? Do you like this colour? Would you put this on?’?” says Martin. “‘Would you buy it? And pay $500 for it?’ We enjoy learning about what inspires women and, practically, what satisfies them.”

不管是女性艺术家（每个时装季，旗下设计师都会从其身上汲取设计灵感，过去的例子就包括了乔治亚?奥基夫(Georgia O'Keeffe)与路易丝?布尔乔亚(Louise Bourgeois)等女性艺术家）、工作室六位知名设计师中的女性成员、还是客户群，女性一直位居Tome品牌最重要的地位。Tome是有心者：确保自己推出的系列做到博采众长，而且愿意倾听从设计至价位的各种反馈意见。“我们会问女性，‘您愿意穿这吗？喜欢这款颜色吗？会穿它吗？’”马丁说。“‘您会买吗？愿意出500美元吗？’我们乐于了解女性喜欢的东西，即她们实际青睐啥。”

For brands like Tome, it’s shirting season every season. “A blank page for a writer is an opportunity for just about any inspiration, and maybe the white shirt allows the same thing,” says Martin. “That white page allows our customer, our woman, to create whatever she wants of herself.” The shirt then allows for renewal²⁴. “They’re everyday heroes,” he concludes.

对于Tome这类品牌来说，衬衣成了包打各个时装季的唯一产品。“对于作家来说，各种写作灵感都能跃然于一张白纸上，或许白衬衣也是如此。”马丁说。“一件白衬衣能让我们的女性客户肆意打扮。”衬衫的花样就会不断推陈出新。“它们就是平日生活的主角。”他总结道。

1 asymmetric   

a.不对称的

参考例句：

• Most people's faces are asymmetric. 大多数人的脸不对称。
• We have made no reference to asymmetric carbon atoms. 我们未曾涉及不对称碳原子。

2 asymmetrical   

adj.不均匀的，不对称的

参考例句：

• Most people's faces are asymmetrical.多数人的脸并不对称。
• Folds may be gentle and symmetrical,or sharp and asymmetrical.褶皱可以是平缓而对称的，也可以是陡峭而非对称的。

3 ruffles   

褶裥花边( ruffle的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• You will need 12 yards of ribbon facing for the ruffles. 你将需要12码丝带为衣服镶边之用。
• It is impossible to live without some daily ruffles to our composure. 我们日常的平静生活免不了会遇到一些波折。

4 functional   

adj.为实用而设计的，具备功能的，起作用的

参考例句：

• The telephone was out of order,but is functional now.电话刚才坏了，但现在可以用了。
• The furniture is not fancy,just functional.这些家具不是摆着好看的，只是为了实用。

5 straps   

n.带子( strap的名词复数 )；挎带；肩带；背带v.用皮带捆扎( strap的第三人称单数 )；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带

参考例句：

• the shoulder straps of her dress 她连衣裙上的肩带
• The straps can be adjusted to suit the wearer. 这些背带可进行调整以适合使用者。

6 sculpted   

adj.经雕塑的

参考例句：

• a display of animals sculpted in ice 冰雕动物展
• The ladies had their hair sculpted by the leading coiffeur of the day. 女士们的发型都是当代有名的理发师做的。

7 renaissance   

n.复活，复兴，文艺复兴

参考例句：

• The Renaissance was an epoch of unparalleled cultural achievement.文艺复兴是一个文化上取得空前成就的时代。
• The theme of the conference is renaissance Europe.大会的主题是文艺复兴时期的欧洲。

8 preen   

v.（人）打扮修饰

参考例句：

• 50% of men under 35 spend at least 20 minutes preening themselves every morning in the bathroom.50%的35岁以下男性每天早上至少花20分钟在盥洗室精心打扮。
• Bill preened his beard.比尔精心修剪了他的胡须。

9 collaboration   

n.合作，协作；勾结

参考例句：

• The two companies are working in close collaboration each other.这两家公司密切合作。
• He was shot for collaboration with the enemy.他因通敌而被枪毙了。

10 staple   

n.主要产物，常用品，主要要素，原料，订书钉，钩环；adj.主要的，重要的；vt.分类

参考例句：

• Tea is the staple crop here.本地产品以茶叶为大宗。
• Potatoes are the staple of their diet.土豆是他们的主要食品。

11 niche   

n.壁龛；合适的职务(环境、位置等)

参考例句：

• Madeleine placed it carefully in the rocky niche. 玛德琳小心翼翼地把它放在岩石壁龛里。
• The really talented among women would always make their own niche.妇女中真正有才能的人总是各得其所。

12 interfacing   

衬布，衬头

参考例句：

• Careful study of the data sheets and a programmable input-output port solve most A/D interfacing problems. 若详细研究一下说明书和可编程序的输入／输出端口，则大部分A／D转换器的接口问题都可得到解决。
• Detailed techniques will be presented here to solve all the common interfacing problems. 本书将详细介绍解决所有公共接口问题的技术。

13 fabric   

n.织物，织品，布；构造，结构，组织

参考例句：

• The fabric will spot easily.这种织品很容易玷污。
• I don't like the pattern on the fabric.我不喜欢那块布料上的图案。

14 interpretations   

n.解释( interpretation的名词复数 )；表演；演绎；理解

参考例句：

• This passage is open to a variety of interpretations. 这篇文章可以有各种不同的解释。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• The involved and abstruse passage makes several interpretations possible. 这段艰涩的文字可以作出好几种解释。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》

15 cuffs   

n.袖口( cuff的名词复数 )v.掌打，拳打( cuff的第三人称单数 )

参考例句：

• a collar and cuffs of white lace 带白色蕾丝花边的衣领和袖口
• The cuffs of his shirt were fraying. 他衬衣的袖口磨破了。

16 humble   

adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低

参考例句：

• In my humble opinion,he will win the election.依我拙见，他将在选举中获胜。
• Defeat and failure make people humble.挫折与失败会使人谦卑。

17 relegated   

v.使降级( relegate的过去式和过去分词 )；使降职；转移；把…归类

参考例句：

• She was then relegated to the role of assistant. 随后她被降级做助手了。
• I think that should be relegated to the garbage can of history. 我认为应该把它扔进历史的垃圾箱。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》

18 duel   

n./v.决斗；(双方的)斗争

参考例句：

• The two teams are locked in a duel for first place.两个队为争夺第一名打得难解难分。
• Duroy was forced to challenge his disparager to duel.杜洛瓦不得不向诋毁他的人提出决斗。

19 belle   

n.靓女

参考例句：

• She was the belle of her Sunday School class.在主日学校她是她们班的班花。
• She was the belle of the ball.她是那个舞会中的美女。

20 entirely   

ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地

参考例句：

• The fire was entirely caused by their neglect of duty. 那场火灾完全是由于他们失职而引起的。
• His life was entirely given up to the educational work. 他的一生统统献给了教育工作。

21 nomad   

n.游牧部落的人，流浪者，游牧民

参考例句：

• He was indeed a nomad of no nationality.他的确是个无国籍的游民。
• The nomad life is rough and hazardous.游牧生活艰苦又危险。

22 eradicate   

v.根除，消灭，杜绝

参考例句：

• These insects are very difficult to eradicate.这些昆虫很难根除。
• They are already battling to eradicate illnesses such as malaria and tetanus.他们已经在努力消灭疟疾、破伤风等疾病。

23 metaphor   

n.隐喻，暗喻

参考例句：

• Using metaphor,we say that computers have senses and a memory.打个比方，我们可以说计算机有感觉和记忆力。
• In poetry the rose is often a metaphor for love.玫瑰在诗中通常作为爱的象征。

24 renewal   

adj.(契约)延期，续订，更新，复活，重来

参考例句：

• Her contract is coming up for renewal in the autumn.她的合同秋天就应该续签了。
• Easter eggs symbolize the renewal of life.复活蛋象征新生。