PBS高端访谈:探寻一家生产面包的磨坊

JUDY WOODRUFF: And now the miller¹'s tale. Among -- many of you will know that we have borrowed the title of this story from the medieval British poet Geoffrey Chaucer and his Canterbury Tales. Unlike that poem, full of adultery and trickery, we bring you a tale of uplift from a picturesque² water mill from after Chaucer's era pressed back into service today to provide bakers³ and grocers fresh flour amid COVID-19 shortages. From the county of Dorset, 120 miles south West of London, special correspondent Malcolm Brabant reports.

MALCOLM BRABANT: At Sturminster Newton, the dawn chorus and torrent⁵ of the River Stour provide an eternal soundscape. For more than 1,000 years, various water mills have stood here, producing high-quality flour, first for aristocrats⁶, then the most powerful medieval monastery⁷ in England, and now, during the dark ages of COVID-19, ordinary folk like thee and me.

PETE LOOSMORE, Head Miller, Sturminster Newton Mill: If you could bring back the miller who was here in those days 1,000 years ago, and stand him by the millstones, he'd know exactly how they worked. So things haven't changed very much as far as milling process is concerned, over that time.

MALCOLM BRABANT: Retired⁸ art teacher Pete Loosmore cranks up the water turbine that replaced the traditional water wheel over a century ago.

PETE LOOSMORE: We have absolutely every scrap⁹ of the grain that goes into the millstones is actually used in the flour, so nothing is sieved¹⁰ out. We have the whole grain. And nothing is added as well. So, what we produce here in the way of flour is an absolutely pure flour, no additives¹¹ whatsoever¹².

MALCOLM BRABANT: During the lockdown, there haven't been that many food shortages, but one staple¹³ that's been rather hard to find has been flour. And that's largely due to the popular British pastime of home baking. So, during the lockdown, people have been sourcing flour from wherever they can to make bread, cakes and pies. And stop yourself right there, because I know exactly what you're thinking. Who ate all the pies? The 500-year-old mill is normally a museum, only grinding small quantities of flour for visitors. But Loosmore stepped up production when the supply chain for local bakers and supermarkets collapsed¹⁴.

PETE LOOSMORE: They didn't seem to be able to restock. And here we were, ready for the next season, with something like a ton of grain stored away in the roof. We had the facility to make that grain into flour, and local people needed it.

MALCOLM BRABANT: The mill's flour has been a godsend for this nearby artisan bakery, which set up a drive-in service to kick-start business.

SUE HARRIS, Customer: My husband likes white sliced, unfortunately. And that is just revolting. I mean, it's horrible texture¹⁵, and it's got no flavor at all really.

So, this is just...and it's sort of...it's dense¹⁶ and it's chewy. And it makes wonderful toast, and it just fills you up. It's just good. And it feels good. And it's just nice to eat.

MALCOLM BRABANT: Dawn Harvey is buying flour to make sourdough. How much difference do you think it makes to the bread itself?

DAWN HARVEY, Customer: So, the way you can work, the feel of it, the way you can work it, and the taste is definitely better than the supermarket.

MALCOLM BRABANT: Baker⁴ Steve Oxford¹⁷ is reaping the benefits of the new simplicity¹⁸.

STEVE OXFORD, Artisan Baker: The grain that's milled at Sturminster is done so in such a way that it's milled in a more gentle, old-fashioned, softer gentler way, on softer milling stones. So, hardly any of the nutrients¹⁹ is lost. And so what you get is a much better flavor, a superior loaf for bakers like me who use a long fermentation process to produce their breads. The mill is no good for very quickly produced bread, modern-day bread, but for a funny old bakery like ours, it's perfect.

MALCOLM BRABANT: The feedback delights artist and museum curator Imogen Bittner, enjoying a third career as a miller.

IMOGEN BITTNER, Sturminster Newton Mill: It's satisfying because you see the results straight away. It's not just about putting it through the millstones. There's a lot of sort of little techniques. It's the smell. It's the...the hearing how it is. It's just balancing everything to produce the flour. And it's almost like alchemy what comes out at the end.

MALCOLM BRABANT: Along with other entrepreneurs, Steve Oxford recognizes that COVID-19 has forced a major reappraisal of values.

STEVE OXFORD: What this situation has done is raised awareness²⁰ about things we should be appreciative²¹ of, things that can step up, things that do help, things that are so important to the heritage of our country, and the fact that, actually, when the world falls apart, there are men that can speak to men and women that can speak to women, and do business, and get things moving without the need of corporations, without the need of mass production.

MALCOLM BRABANT: Imogen Bittner also sees positives emerging from the lockdown.

IMOGEN BITTNER: The lesson is, I think we should do that more often with all our foods. I mean, if you buy vegetables by the side of the road, they taste better. It's... we're importing so much. The commercial aspect of it kills the taste, I think. If you can get back to basics, then you get better-quality food.

MALCOLM BRABANT: Although the experiment suggests the mill has commercial potential, it is a historic landmark²², and the sense here is that, once the crisis has subsided²³, this national treasure will return to semi-retirement. For the PBS NewsHour, I'm Malcolm Brabant in Sturminster Newton.

JUDY WOODRUFF: Such a great story. The only thing we miss when it's baking is the smell of that fresh bread.

朱迪·伍德拉夫：今天来聊聊磨坊主的故事。大家很多人都知道，我们借了中世纪英国诗人杰弗里·乔叟和《坎特伯雷故事集》中一则故事的标题。与那首关于通奸和欺骗的诗不同，今天讲的是乔叟时代后，磨坊主们在疫情期间资源紧缺的情况下为面包师和杂货商提供新鲜面粉的故事。在伦敦西南部120英里的地方有个郡叫多塞特，请听我台记者马尔科姆从那里发回的报道。

马尔科姆：在牛顿磨坊这里，清晨的鸟鸣和斯陶尔河奔流的水声时常在耳畔。1000多年来，许多水磨坊曾屹立在这里，生产着质量上好的面粉，先是给贵族们提供，然后是给英格兰最有权势的中世纪修道院提供。而在疫情肆虐期间，这些磨坊却坚持为像你我一样的平凡人提供面粉。

皮特，磨坊主，牛顿磨坊：如果能将1000年前这里的磨坊主重现到今天的话，那么只需让他们站在磨盘边上，他们就知道要如何运作了。所以虽然时间流失，但磨坊的原理却没怎么变。

马尔科姆：退休的美术老师皮特启动了水轮机，代替了1个多世纪前的传统水轮。

皮特：每一粒进入磨石的米都物尽其用了，没有筛掉的地方。所有米粒都用上了。而且也没有添加成分。所以我们用面粉的形式生产出来的东西都是纯面粉，无添加成分。

马尔科姆：在疫情封锁期间，虽然没有粮食紧缺，但面粉却千金难得。这大概是因为英国人会以烘焙为消遣时间的方式。所以，在封锁期间，人们通过各种方式来获取面粉来做面包、蛋糕、派。先别说了，我知道你们在想什么。谁吃掉了那些派呢？这个500年历史的磨坊就像一个博物馆，为游客提供着少量的面粉。在当地面包师和超市的供应链断掉之后，Loosmore加大了自己的产量。

皮特：它们似乎无法再储存。所以我们时刻准备迎接下一季，准备好把大量谷物存放在房顶。我们有设备，可以将谷物转化为面粉，而当地人确实需要面粉。

马尔科姆：磨坊提供的面粉对附近的面包店来说是天赐之物，他们甚至还提供路边服务来帮助这门生意顺利开办。

哈里斯，顾客：我丈夫喜欢白切，很不幸，但现在不行。质地不是我们想要的那种，没有面粉可用。我们要的那种口感很浓密、很有嚼劲。可以做很棒的烤面包，让你的味蕾得到满足。感觉特别棒，口感特别好。

马尔科姆：道恩用面粉来做酵母。这对面筋包来说有什么区别吗？

道恩，顾客：你做的方式、口感都很特别，口味比超市的好。

马尔科姆：史蒂夫是这种新简约风格的受益者。

史蒂夫，面包师：牛顿磨坊的面粉匠心独运，口感轻柔、古朴。所以营养几乎没有流失，面粉的质感更好，做出来的面包很棒，而且中间发酵的时间很长。磨坊做的面粉对于现代化流水化生产的面包来说不太实用，但对像我们一样的面包师来说却很完美。

马尔科姆：这样的反馈让博物馆馆长、艺术家特纳感到开心，他很享受自己作为磨坊主的第3个身份。

特纳，磨坊主：结果立竿见影，很让人满意。这不只是因为要用磨石做。还有很多精妙的工艺，味道很特别，声音也很特别。一切都需要达到平衡的状态才能产出好的面粉。最后呈现结果的时候仿佛有魔力一般。

马尔科姆：包括史蒂夫在内的很多企业家都表示疫情让人们重新评估价值。

史蒂夫：疫情加强了人们对很多事情的认识，比如我们应该感激欣赏什么、可以加速的事情有什么，有帮助的事情是什么、对国家文化遗产重要的事情是什么，我们也明晰了一个事实——当世界分崩离析时，总会有人愿意挺身而出，不需要企业、也不需要大规模生产就能推动一些事情。

马尔科姆：特纳也看到了封锁期间一些正面的事情。

特纳：我学到的是，对待所有粮食都应该提高这样做的频率。我想说，在路边买的蔬菜可能味道更好。我们进口了太多东西了。商业化的生产破坏了口感。我们应该回归本源，去关注质量好的食物。

马尔科姆：虽然实验表明磨坊有商业潜力，是历史性的标志，但一旦危机过去，磨坊这种国家宝藏就又会出于半退休的状态。感谢收听马尔科姆发回的报道。

1 miller   

n.磨坊主

参考例句：

• Every miller draws water to his own mill.磨坊主都往自己磨里注水。
• The skilful miller killed millions of lions with his ski.技术娴熟的磨坊主用雪橇杀死了上百万头狮子。

2 picturesque   

adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的

参考例句：

• You can see the picturesque shores beside the river.在河边你可以看到景色如画的两岸。
• That was a picturesque phrase.那是一个形象化的说法。

3 bakers   

n.面包师( baker的名词复数 )；面包店；面包店店主；十三

参考例句：

• The Bakers have invited us out for a meal tonight. 贝克一家今晚请我们到外面去吃饭。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• The bakers specialize in catering for large parties. 那些面包师专门负责为大型宴会提供食品。 来自《简明英汉词典》

4 baker   

n.面包师

参考例句：

• The baker bakes his bread in the bakery.面包师在面包房内烤面包。
• The baker frosted the cake with a mixture of sugar and whites of eggs.面包师在蛋糕上撒了一层白糖和蛋清的混合料。

5 torrent   

n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发

参考例句：

• The torrent scoured a channel down the hillside. 急流沿着山坡冲出了一条沟。
• Her pent-up anger was released in a torrent of words.她压抑的愤怒以滔滔不绝的话爆发了出来。

6 aristocrats   

n.贵族( aristocrat的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• Many aristocrats were killed in the French Revolution. 许多贵族在法国大革命中被处死。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• To the Guillotine all aristocrats! 把全部贵族都送上断头台！ 来自英汉文学 - 双城记

7 monastery   

n.修道院，僧院，寺院

参考例句：

• They found an icon in the monastery.他们在修道院中发现了一个圣像。
• She was appointed the superior of the monastery two years ago.两年前她被任命为这个修道院的院长。

8 retired   

adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的

参考例句：

• The old man retired to the country for rest.这位老人下乡休息去了。
• Many retired people take up gardening as a hobby.许多退休的人都以从事园艺为嗜好。

9 scrap   

n.碎片；废料；v.废弃，报废

参考例句：

• A man comes round regularly collecting scrap.有个男人定时来收废品。
• Sell that car for scrap.把那辆汽车当残品卖了吧。

10 sieved   

筛，漏勺( sieve的过去式和过去分词 )

参考例句：

• Add the sieved plain flour, quickly mix well & reheat. 面粉过筛加入后中迅速拌匀后再加热。
• Sand can not be added into the material without being sieved. 没有过筛子的沙子是不能入料的。

11 additives   

n.添加剂( additive的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• chemical additives in petrol 汽油中的化学添加剂
• It'says on the packet that these crisps contain no additives. 包装上说这些炸薯片不含添加剂。 来自《简明英汉词典》

12 whatsoever   

adv.（用于否定句中以加强语气）任何；pron.无论什么

参考例句：

• There's no reason whatsoever to turn down this suggestion.没有任何理由拒绝这个建议。
• All things whatsoever ye would that men should do to you,do ye even so to them.你想别人对你怎样，你就怎样对人。

13 staple   

n.主要产物，常用品，主要要素，原料，订书钉，钩环；adj.主要的，重要的；vt.分类

参考例句：

• Tea is the staple crop here.本地产品以茶叶为大宗。
• Potatoes are the staple of their diet.土豆是他们的主要食品。

14 collapsed   

adj.倒塌的

参考例句：

• Jack collapsed in agony on the floor. 杰克十分痛苦地瘫倒在地板上。
• The roof collapsed under the weight of snow. 房顶在雪的重压下突然坍塌下来。

15 texture   

n.(织物)质地；(材料)构造；结构；肌理

参考例句：

• We could feel the smooth texture of silk.我们能感觉出丝绸的光滑质地。
• Her skin has a fine texture.她的皮肤细腻。

16 dense   

a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的

参考例句：

• The general ambushed his troops in the dense woods. 将军把部队埋伏在浓密的树林里。
• The path was completely covered by the dense foliage. 小路被树叶厚厚地盖了一层。

17 Oxford   

n.牛津（英国城市）

参考例句：

• At present he has become a Professor of Chemistry at Oxford.他现在已是牛津大学的化学教授了。
• This is where the road to Oxford joins the road to London.这是去牛津的路与去伦敦的路的汇合处。

18 simplicity   

n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯

参考例句：

• She dressed with elegant simplicity.她穿着朴素高雅。
• The beauty of this plan is its simplicity.简明扼要是这个计划的一大特点。

19 nutrients   

n.（食品或化学品）营养物，营养品( nutrient的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• a lack of essential nutrients 基本营养的缺乏
• Nutrients are absorbed into the bloodstream. 营养素被吸收进血液。 来自《简明英汉词典》

20 awareness   

n.意识，觉悟，懂事，明智

参考例句：

• There is a general awareness that smoking is harmful.人们普遍认识到吸烟有害健康。
• Environmental awareness has increased over the years.这些年来人们的环境意识增强了。

21 appreciative   

adj.有鉴赏力的，有眼力的；感激的

参考例句：

• She was deeply appreciative of your help.她对你的帮助深表感激。
• We are very appreciative of their support in this respect.我们十分感谢他们在这方面的支持。

22 landmark   

n.陆标，划时代的事，地界标

参考例句：

• The Russian Revolution represents a landmark in world history.俄国革命是世界历史上的一个里程碑。
• The tower was once a landmark for ships.这座塔曾是船只的陆标。

23 subsided   

v.（土地）下陷（因在地下采矿）( subside的过去式和过去分词 )；减弱；下降至较低或正常水平；一下子坐在椅子等上

参考例句：

• After the heavy rains part of the road subsided. 大雨过后，部分公路塌陷了。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• By evening the storm had subsided and all was quiet again. 傍晚， 暴风雨已经过去，四周开始沉寂下来。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》