英国卫报:奈斯派索的咖啡革命是如何被粉碎的(14)

“In many ways, the Nespresso pod is the microwave meal of coffee,” said James Hoffman.

詹姆斯·霍夫曼表示，“在许多方面，奈斯派索胶囊咖啡都是微波咖啡餐。”

“Nespresso is expensive for what it is.

奈斯派索胶囊咖啡就其本身而言是很贵的。

It’s fine in terms of its quality, but with a little bit of effort you could make something far better at home.”

它的质量还不错，但只要稍加费力，你在家里就能做出更好的咖啡。”

But as Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, who runs an independent coffee shop in Bath, told me,

马克斯韦尔·科隆纳-达什伍德在巴斯开了一家独立咖啡店，他告诉我，

Nespresso was never meant to rival true specialty¹ coffee.

奈斯派索胶囊咖啡从未打算与真正的特色咖啡相匹敌。

“They don’t want it to taste like that. They want it to have mass appeal.”

“他们不想做出那种口味。他们希望它可以吸引大众。”

“I love small-batch, third-wave coffee, too,” Ranitzsch said, admiring his silos.

“我也爱喝小批量的，第三次咖啡运动倡导的高质量咖啡。”对咖啡胶囊称赞有加的拉尼茨施说道。

“The guys with tattoos² and beards stirring their beans in Brooklyn. It is artisanal.

“布鲁克林的纹身和大胡子男人在搅拌他们的豆子。它是手工制作的。

But here we want consistency³.” After the tour of Nespresso’s facilities, Ranitzsch and I sat in the “coffee campus”.

但是，在这里我们想要的是一致性。”在参观完奈斯派索的设施后，拉尼茨施和我在“咖啡园区”歇脚。

Sitting at a tasting table, we sniffed⁴, slurped⁵ and spat⁶ out a variety of different brews⁷.

我们坐在品酒桌旁，闻着，咂着，吐着各种不同的啤酒。

He suggested aromas⁸ of flowers, fruit, earth and caramel and grew slightly wistful.

他提到了花香、水果、泥土和焦糖的味道，有点伤感。

“Coffee comes with history and memories,” he said.

“咖啡伴随着历史和记忆，”他说。

“Growing up, you didn’t like it, but you wanted to be like the adults. It has something to do with belonging.”

“长大后，你不喜欢它，但你想像成年人一样。它与归属有关。”

Favre, too, sometimes turns poetic⁹ when he talks about coffee.

法弗尔在谈到咖啡时，有时也会变得富有诗意。

He told me that his invention didn’t make him rich, but that didn’t bother him.

他告诉我，他的发明没能让他变得富有，但是这并没有让他感到烦恼。

“I don’t mind about the money,” he said.

他说：“我不在意金钱。”

“I see Nespresso like a daughter who is always telling me: look at what you can do and look at what you did.

“我将奈斯派索视作自己的女儿，她总是告诉我：看看你能做什么，看看你做了什么。

I am very proud of her. She is mine, she is in my heart, she is always in my mind.”

我为她感到骄傲。她是我的，她在我心里，她永远在我心里。”

In the summer of 2020, buffeted¹⁰ by Covid-19, Nespresso trundles on.

2020年夏天，在新型冠状病毒的冲击下，奈斯派索咖啡机缓慢地继续前进。

In a recent email, a spokesperson reported “mid single-digit growth,”

在最近的一封电子邮件中，一位发言人报告了“中等个位数的增长，”

and the company has announced it will be expanding the Romont facility, but the mood is different.

该公司已经宣布将扩大在罗蒙的工厂，但气氛有所不同。

A new CEO, Guillaume Le Cunff, another long-term employee,

新任首席执行官纪尧姆·勒坎夫是另一位长期雇员，

who had previously¹¹ worked on many of the company’s sustainability initiatives, took over earlier this year.

他之前曾参与过公司的许多可持续发展项目，今年早些时候出任首席执行官。

In late May, a new ad appeared on Nespresso’s YouTube page.

五月底，一个新的广告出现在奈斯派索的油管页面上。

Over shots of farmers and waterfalls and thoughtful-looking agronomists¹²,

在展示着农民、瀑布和沉思的农学家的镜头中，

a female voice talks about ecosystems¹³, farmers and recyclable aluminium¹⁴.

一个女性的声音在谈论生态系统、农民和可回收铝。

“Now, more than ever, doing the right thing matters,” she says.

她说，“现在，做对的事情比以往任何时候都重要。”

“Those who know most about exceptional coffee, know exceptional coffee comes from care.” George Clooney is nowhere to be seen.

“那些最了解优质咖啡的人，知道优质咖啡来自于关怀。”广告里没有了乔治·克鲁尼的身影。

1 specialty   

n.(speciality)特性，特质；专业，专长

参考例句：

• Shell carvings are a specialty of the town.贝雕是该城的特产。
• His specialty is English literature.他的专业是英国文学。

2 tattoos   

n.文身( tattoo的名词复数 )；归营鼓；军队夜间表演操；连续有节奏的敲击声v.刺青，文身( tattoo的第三人称单数 )；连续有节奏地敲击；作连续有节奏的敲击

参考例句：

• His arms were covered in tattoos. 他的胳膊上刺满了花纹。
• His arms were covered in tattoos. 他的双臂刺满了纹身。 来自《简明英汉词典》

3 consistency   

n.一贯性，前后一致，稳定性；(液体的)浓度

参考例句：

• Your behaviour lacks consistency.你的行为缺乏一贯性。
• We appreciate the consistency and stability in China and in Chinese politics.我们赞赏中国及其政策的连续性和稳定性。

4 sniffed   

v.以鼻吸气，嗅，闻( sniff的过去式和过去分词 )；抽鼻子（尤指哭泣、患感冒等时出声地用鼻子吸气）；抱怨，不以为然地说

参考例句：

• When Jenney had stopped crying she sniffed and dried her eyes. 珍妮停止了哭泣，吸了吸鼻子，擦干了眼泪。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• The dog sniffed suspiciously at the stranger. 狗疑惑地嗅着那个陌生人。 来自《简明英汉词典》

5 slurped   

v.啜食( slurp的过去式和过去分词 )

参考例句：

• He slurped down a cup of sweet, black coffee. 他咕嘟咕嘟地喝下了一杯加糖的清咖啡。 来自辞典例句
• He crunched his cookies and slurped his tea. 他嘎吱嘎吱地咬着饼干，咕噜咕噜地喝茶。 来自互联网

6 spat   

n.口角，掌击；v.发出呼噜呼噜声

参考例句：

• Her parents always have spats.她的父母经常有些小的口角。
• There is only a spat between the brother and sister.那只是兄妹间的小吵小闹。

7 brews   

n.（尤指某地酿造的）啤酒( brew的名词复数 )；酿造物的种类；（茶）一次的冲泡量；（不同思想、环境、事件的）交融v.调制( brew的第三人称单数 )；酝酿；沏（茶）；煮（咖啡）

参考例句：

• He brews beer at home. 他在家里酿造啤酒。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• They produce the country's best brews of beer. 他们生产该国的佳酿啤酒。 来自辞典例句

8 aromas   

n.芳香( aroma的名词复数 )；气味；风味；韵味

参考例句：

• Intoxicating earth aromas induced lassitude and ethereal calm. 泥土的醉人的芳香叫人懒洋洋的，感到一种远离尘世的宁静。 来自辞典例句
• Nose and elegant nose with attractive fruity, floral and citrus fruit aromas. 芳香：优雅、馥郁、迷人的柑橘属水果的果香及花的清香。 来自互联网

9 poetic   

adj.富有诗意的，有诗人气质的，善于抒情的

参考例句：

• His poetic idiom is stamped with expressions describing group feeling and thought.他的诗中的措辞往往带有描写群体感情和思想的印记。
• His poetic novels have gone through three different historical stages.他的诗情小说创作经历了三个不同的历史阶段。

10 buffeted   

反复敲打( buffet的过去式和过去分词 )； 连续猛击； 打来打去； 推来搡去

参考例句：

• to be buffeted by the wind 被风吹得左右摇摆
• We were buffeted by the wind and the rain. 我们遭到风雨的袭击。

11 previously   

adv.以前，先前（地）

参考例句：

• The bicycle tyre blew out at a previously damaged point.自行车胎在以前损坏过的地方又爆开了。
• Let me digress for a moment and explain what had happened previously.让我岔开一会儿，解释原先发生了什么。

12 agronomists   

n.农（艺）学家( agronomist的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• Agronomists are concerned with the production of crops for food, feed, and fibre. 农学工作者应学习食物、饲料和纤维作物的生产。 来自辞典例句
• Agronomists and farmers use the pictures to study crops. 农学家和农民利用图片来研究庄稼。 来自互联网

13 ecosystems   

n.生态系统( ecosystem的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• There are highly sensitive and delicately balanced ecosystems in the forest. 森林里有高度敏感、灵敏平衡的各种生态系统。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• Madagascar's ecosystems range from rainforest to semi-desert. 马达加斯加生态系统类型多样，从雨林到半荒漠等不一而足。 来自辞典例句

14 aluminium   

n.铝 (=aluminum)

参考例句：

• Aluminium looks heavy but actually it is very light.铝看起来很重，实际上却很轻。
• If necessary, we can use aluminium instead of steel.如果必要，我们可用铝代钢。