新闻周刊:牛仔裤的真实成本(1)

From the Culture Section

来源于《文化》版块

The Real Cost of Your Blue Jeans

你的蓝色牛仔裤的真正成本

By Dana Thomas

作者：达娜·托马斯

The biggest fashion trend in recent years is "fast fashion"—the mass production of trendy, inexpensive clothing with lightning-quick turnaround. This is a hugely wasteful¹ global, environmental and human rights disaster, according to bestselling journalist Dana Thomas in her new book Fashionopolis.

近年来最大的时尚潮流是“快时尚”，即大量生产时尚、廉价、转瞬即逝的服装。畅销书记者达纳·托马斯在她的新书《时尚都市》中写道，这是一场巨大的全球性、环境和人权灾难。

Making the industry's 80 billion garments per year requires huge amounts of water and toxic² chemicals. It employs every sixth person on Earth—most in dangerous conditions for very little money. Fast fashion also produces mountains of clothes that go unsold or are discarded and end up in garbage dumps and landfills.

制衣业每年生产800亿件服装需要大量的水和有毒化学物质。它雇佣了地球上的六分之一的员工——其中大多数处于危险的环境中，薪水却很少。快时尚还会产生大量未售出或被丢弃的衣服，这些衣服最终会被扔进垃圾场和垃圾填埋场。

There is no single solution for these problems of ecological³ damage, exploitation and waste, but there is hope for the future. Consumers, retailers⁴ and innovators are pursuing a variety of options for sustainability, such as buying secondhand clothes; renting outfits⁵; recycling clothes into new, reusable fibers⁶; 3D printing clothes on demand; biofabrication; reshoring; and using organic and natural fibers. And just buying less.

这些生态破坏、开发和浪费的问题没有单一的解决办法，但未来是有希望的。消费者、零售商和革新者正在寻求各种可持续性的选择，比如购买二手衣服;租赁公司;把衣服变成新的、可重复使用的纤维; 按需3D打印衣服;生物制造;重新支撑;使用有机和天然纤维。减少购买。

Perhaps the worst offenders⁷ in terms of environmental and human damage are blue jeans. In this excerpt⁸ from Fashionopolis, Thomas explores some of what ails⁹ the world's most popular garment of all—and one process that could help cure some of the ills plaguing their production.

也许对环境和人类危害最大的是牛仔裤。在这段节选自Fashionopolis的文章中，托马斯探讨了世界上最流行的服装的一些问题，以及一种可以帮助解决困扰其生产的一些问题的工艺。

You are probably wearing jeans as you read this. If you're not, chances are you wore them yesterday. Or you will tomorrow. At any given moment, anthropologists believe, half the world's population is sporting jeans. Five billion pairs are produced annually¹⁰. The average American owns seven—one for each day of the week—and buys four new pairs every year. "I wish I had invented blue jeans," the French couturier Yves Saint Laurent confessed. "They have expression, modesty¹¹, sex appeal, simplicity—all I hope for my clothes."

读这篇文章的时候，你可能正穿着牛仔裤。如果你没有，很可能你昨天就穿了。否则你明天就会穿。人类学家认为，在任何时候，世界上一半的人口都在穿牛仔裤。每年生产50亿条。美国人平均每天拥有7 – 1条，每年购买4双。“我希望我发明了蓝色牛仔裤，”法国时装设计师伊夫·圣洛朗承认了这一点。“她们有表情、端庄、性感、简单——所有这些都是我对衣服的期望。”

1 wasteful   

adj.（造成）浪费的，挥霍的

参考例句：

• It is a shame to be so wasteful.这样浪费太可惜了。
• Duties have been reassigned to avoid wasteful duplication of work.为避免重复劳动浪费资源，任务已经重新分派。

2 toxic   

adj.有毒的，因中毒引起的

参考例句：

• The factory had accidentally released a quantity of toxic waste into the sea.这家工厂意外泄漏大量有毒废物到海中。
• There is a risk that toxic chemicals might be blasted into the atmosphere.爆炸后有毒化学物质可能会进入大气层。

3 ecological   

adj.生态的，生态学的

参考例句：

• The region has been declared an ecological disaster zone.这个地区已经宣布为生态灾难区。
• Each animal has its ecological niche.每种动物都有自己的生态位.

4 retailers   

零售商，零售店( retailer的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• High street retailers reported a marked increase in sales before Christmas. 商业街的零售商报告说圣诞节前销售量显著提高。
• Retailers have a statutory duty to provide goods suitable for their purpose. 零售商有为他们提供符合要求的货品的法定义务。

5 outfits   

n.全套装备( outfit的名词复数 )；一套服装；集体；组织v.装备，配置设备，供给服装( outfit的第三人称单数 )

参考例句：

• He jobbed out the contract to a number of small outfits. 他把承包工程分包给许多小单位。 来自辞典例句
• Some cyclists carry repair outfits because they may have a puncture. 有些骑自行车的人带修理工具，因为他们车胎可能小孔。 来自辞典例句

6 fibers   

光纤( fiber的名词复数 )； （织物的）质地； 纤维，纤维物质

参考例句：

• Thesolution of collagen-PVA was wet spined with the sodium sulfate as coagulant and collagen-PVA composite fibers were prepared. 在此基础上，以硫酸钠为凝固剂，对胶原-PVA共混溶液进行湿法纺丝，制备了胶原-PVA复合纤维。
• Sympathetic fibers are distributed to all regions of the heart. 交感神经纤维分布于心脏的所有部分。

7 offenders   

n.冒犯者( offender的名词复数 )；犯规者；罪犯；妨害…的人（或事物）

参考例句：

• Long prison sentences can be a very effective deterrent for offenders. 判处长期徒刑可对违法者起到强有力的威慑作用。
• Purposeful work is an important part of the regime for young offenders. 使从事有意义的劳动是管理少年犯的重要方法。

8 excerpt   

n.摘录，选录，节录

参考例句：

• This is an excerpt from a novel.这是一部小说的摘录。
• Can you excerpt something from the newspaper? 你能从报纸上选录些东西吗？

9 ails   

v.生病( ail的第三人称单数 )；感到不舒服；处境困难；境况不佳

参考例句：

• He will not concede what anything ails his business. 他不允许任何事情来干扰他的工作。 来自《现代英汉综合大词典》
• Measles ails the little girl. 麻疹折磨着这个小女孩。 来自《简明英汉词典》

10 annually   

adv.一年一次，每年

参考例句：

• Many migratory birds visit this lake annually.许多候鸟每年到这个湖上作短期逗留。
• They celebrate their wedding anniversary annually.他们每年庆祝一番结婚纪念日。

11 modesty   

n.谦逊，虚心，端庄，稳重，羞怯，朴素

参考例句：

• Industry and modesty are the chief factors of his success.勤奋和谦虚是他成功的主要因素。
• As conceit makes one lag behind,so modesty helps one make progress.骄傲使人落后，谦虚使人进步。