新闻周刊:牛仔裤的真实成本(6)

Silla led me to the lab to see the system in action. In the laser room, in 10 or 11 seconds, the jeans were as faded and destroyed as my old shrink-to-fit 501s after three years of hard living.

西拉带我去了实验室，看看这个系统是如何运作的。在激光室里，在10或11秒内，牛仔裤被褪色、磨损，就像我的旧的经过三年不停穿着的收缩到合适尺寸的501牛仔裤一样。

Next, a dryer-like tumbler uses ozone¹ to fade jeans. Using stratospheric ozone, or "good ozone," in finishing is "like putting a garment in the sun for a month, except we can do it in 20 minutes," Silla explained, and with a fraction of the energy or water the old process required.

接下来，一个干式滚筒利用臭氧使牛仔裤褪色。新罗解释说，使用平流层臭氧，或称“良好臭氧”，在整理过程中，“就像把一件衣服在太阳下晒一个月，只不过我们可以在20分钟内完成，” 只需消耗旧工艺所需能量或水的一小部分。

Finally, we visited the washroom, where the e-Flow machine washes jeans among microscopic² bubbles. "Nanobubbles do the softening³, tinting⁴ and stonewash without the stones, all at once," Silla said. There is no water treatment afterward⁵ and the water that is used can be recycled for 30 days. "We are not at zero water stage yet," he said. "But we are getting there."

最后，我们参观了洗手间，那里的e-Flow洗衣机在微小的气泡中清洗牛仔裤。“纳米气泡在没有石头的情况下进行软化、着色和石磨，”新罗说。之后没有水处理，使用的水可以循环30天。“我们还没有达到零水位。”他说。“但我们正在接近目标。”

While in Ho Chi Minh City, I toured a Jeanologia-equipped washhouse to see the process on a commercial scale. Jeanologia, my host told me, had "totally transformed production."

在胡志明市的时候，我参观了一个配备了牛仔裤的洗衣房，以便在商业规模上看到这一过程。我的主人告诉我，Jeanologia“彻底改变了生产”。

The factory processed about half of what the big Chinese factories churn out—all without the frenetic grabbing and flinging of garments, screeching⁶ sanders, sweltering heat or stress.

这家工厂加工了中国大型工厂大约一半的产品|——所有这些都没有疯狂地抓着和甩着衣服，没有刺耳的摩擦声，没有酷热或压力。

When I asked about job loss, my guide conceded that "eventually everything will be robotic." But instead of waves of layoffs⁷, this factory retrains workers to use "more sophisticated machinery⁸, or to manage," he said. And back in Valencia, after a four-month course to teach workers how to run the laser distressing⁹ machines, newly minted "laser design experts" are dispatched throughout the world.

当我问及失业问题时，我的向导承认，“最终一切都会变得机械化。”但他说，这家工厂没有进行大规模裁员，而是对工人进行再培训，让他们使用“更复杂的机器，或者进行管理”。回到巴伦西亚后，在为期四个月的课程中，工人们学习如何操作激光脱模机，新一代的“激光设计专家”被派往世界各地。

Even with all these pluses, Jeanologia has had a tough time breaking into the jeans finishing market. What would really change the game, would be to win over the majors: Gap, H&M, Zara, Uniqlo, PVH, VF Corp and Levi's.

尽管有这些优势，Jeanologia还是很难打入牛仔裤精加工市场。真正改变比赛的，将是赢过牛仔裤巨头；Gap, H&M, Zara，优衣库，PVH, VF Corp和Levi's。

"If we transform the way these people produce," he said, "that would be immense."

“如果我们改变这些生产商的生产方式，”他说，“那将是巨大的。”

1 ozone   

n.臭氧，新鲜空气

参考例句：

• The ozone layer is a protective layer around the planet Earth.臭氧层是地球的保护层。
• The capacity of ozone can adjust according of requirement.臭氧的产量可根据需要或调节。

2 microscopic   

adj.微小的，细微的，极小的，显微的

参考例句：

• It's impossible to read his microscopic handwriting.不可能看清他那极小的书写字迹。
• A plant's lungs are the microscopic pores in its leaves.植物的肺就是其叶片上微细的气孔。

3 softening   

变软，软化

参考例句：

• Her eyes, softening, caressed his face. 她的眼光变得很温柔了。它们不住地爱抚他的脸。 来自汉英文学 - 家（1-26） - 家（1-26）
• He might think my brain was softening or something of the kind. 他也许会觉得我婆婆妈妈的，已经成了个软心肠的人了。

4 tinting   

着色，染色（的阶段或过程）

参考例句：

• With paint film confecting envirogluvtm its gloss, transparency and tinting strength. 用颜料片配制的油不朱其平泽度、透明性及着色辛矮。
• Applications: for tinting to oil paints, building materials, plastic and rubber products. 用途：用于油漆、建材、塑料、橡胶制品着色等。

5 afterward   

adv.后来；以后

参考例句：

• Let's go to the theatre first and eat afterward. 让我们先去看戏，然后吃饭。
• Afterward,the boy became a very famous artist.后来，这男孩成为一个很有名的艺术家。

6 screeching   

v.发出尖叫声( screech的现在分词 )；发出粗而刺耳的声音；高叫

参考例句：

• Monkeys were screeching in the trees. 猴子在树上吱吱地叫着。
• the unedifying sight of the two party leaders screeching at each other 两党党魁狺狺对吠的讨厌情景

7 layoffs   

临时解雇( layoff的名词复数 )； 停工，停止活动

参考例句：

• Textile companies announced 2000 fresh layoffs last week. 各纺织公司上周宣布再次裁员两千人。
• Stock prices broke when the firm suddenly announced layoffs. 当公司突然宣布裁员时，股票价格便大跌

8 machinery   

n.(总称)机械，机器；机构

参考例句：

• Has the machinery been put up ready for the broadcast?广播器材安装完毕了吗？
• Machinery ought to be well maintained all the time.机器应该随时注意维护。

9 distressing   

a.使人痛苦的

参考例句：

• All who saw the distressing scene revolted against it. 所有看到这种悲惨景象的人都对此感到难过。
• It is distressing to see food being wasted like this. 这样浪费粮食令人痛心。